This Portrush series, walking from Croc-na-mac on a lap of the town, looking at Postcards from the Sumptious Selection from Sheila Brown’s Exquisite Emporium as we walk along.
Me, I played golf and badminton and tennis at the recreation grounds. I ask around for some harbour stories, and Garry McIlwaine replied, “Hi, David! You got me at a good time……. I’ll jot down a few memories and hopefully the others will add their stories too, to pack around those class postcards.”
Reading of the tales of Garry McIlwaine and his buddies as they played and swimmed and climbed at the harbour, a reviewer writes, “Oh! It is a delight!! It is like reading a chapter of the Famous Five or the Secret Seven! I love their adventures. Typical boy stuff I suppose, but Wow!! I can imagine it all in my head. Such wonderful descriptions xxx”
Remembering their times as lads playing around the harbour, Garry writes, “It seems like us group of lads knew every stone in and around the harbour and Ramore Head, particularly the ones that combined to provide stairways (rock-steps) to something exciting, new, or even better, ‘Forbidden!’ One of the biggest voodoos in our family was to ‘Go within a hundred miles of the Black Rocks or Ramore Head, or the Stone Bins’. Punishable of course, but only if you were found out!
Left, Portrush poster; and Right, Maureen Kane tells me that she jumped over the wall at the back of the Yacht Club, grazed her hands on the glass-shards, in pursuit of this photo.
“At 10 or 12 years of age, my lads’ group visit to the harbour invariably ended up in some sort of a ‘test’. Peer pressure sent common sense packing, freeing opportunity for our risk-taking to be exercised. We dodged big waves on the harbour back wall. No matter what state the tide presented, we rock-stepped (or rock-laddered) onto the wee beach at the Ramore Bar. From there, after skimming the best flat stones in Portrush or the best weathered glass bottle bottoms, we would see who could climb farthest horizontally along the old harbour wall. The right approach would have been to start at the deep end near the rickety bridge and scramble towards the shallow. Not us. The test always resulted in stinging finger tips, grazed knees and damp socks but never ever with a dry winner.
“The ultimate test was to scale The Bins: not as high as the Black Rocks or parts of Ramore Head, those stone bins at the harbour looked so much more manageable. There was even an iron ladder going from the roof of the little control bunker – where we could still gain entry and flick the big elevator switch – all the way to the topmost metal shutes which directed the stones into particular bins.
“Me, I NEVER got more than half way… no matter how hard Stephen Leslie, Derek Finlay or my brother John tried to coax or cajole me, I never did. At just about half way, that ladder would take on a life of its own – shaking, wobbling, even bouncing! All I could do was freeze and cling on for dear life. Neither up nor down would I / could I go.
The saving grace was that, me being last to try to go up, the others would need me to go down so that they could!
Those moments always remain vivid in my worst nightmares or when in class, I would heve read ‘The Turbulent Term of Tyke Tiler’ to my P6 and P7 youngsters.
“Rocksteps weren’t always about height.
“At the harbour, Crawford Rankin’s little clinker rowing boat was accessed via one set of rock-steps close to the lifeboat. They led down to a large flat rock – Crawford had a man’s name for it – from where we would set sail on our voyages of discovery.
Postcards – 1956, & 1960s
“On foot, the harbour area had its attractions. By water it was so different. Crawford, Haslett Knox and I would usually end up being a boarding party on to one of the RAF boats. (That always puzzled me as a boy: ‘RAF boats??’) Ending up on the raft by not swimming was always exciting, even if you knew that if things played out to script, one of you would be abandoned there for a laugh!
“Crawford’s boat gave us access to two great spaces not reachable on foot when the tide was in: under the lifeboat house and under the harbour wall (the part past the bins was held up in these days by wooden posts). In there we would gaze at winking anemones, grazing limits, clouds of darting sand eels, silvery mullet and spider crabs (velvet) which disguised themselves on the dimly lit boulders. There was even the chance of spotting a lobster. Seeing these creatures alive in the water rather than in a creel, at the bottom of a boat or on a menu – we were a real, living Jacques Cousteau expedition!
“Rocky mearn (wrasse), which introduced me to float fishing, were always an interesting catch, with their magnificent coppery scales flashing and glinting ‘on their way up’.
David Martin, with Crawford Rankin, on a Causeway cruise, a handful of years back
And an even better way to see the marine life……: “Whilst shivering ourselves back from numbness after a swim day at The Raft, I was totally awe-struck at the sight of a rubber clad snorkler surfacing.
With a spear gun.
A spear gun with a good-sized flapping ‘Lithe’ attached!”
(David: one time I signed up to do a First Aid course at work. It is really not my thing, but I was Brave and went.
The first session started gently with how to deal with choking, asphyxiation, food trapped in your throat, artificial respiration. Then the video showed a beach scene, with the scuba diver with his big spear gun, it accidentally firing and the guy lying on the beach harpooned in the chest, blood spurting.
Luckily someone else in the room fainted and the video was stopped before I passed out. The spear gun story here has too many memories of that scene!!)
“Anyway, back to the story: soon after, a summer money visit to Joe Mullan’s (‘No worms or mackerel today, Garry?’) saw me kitted out with the trendiest sky blue and fizzy yellow snorkel, mask and flippers. At home I snapped off the floaty water stopping clunky thing from the top of the snorkle and set to work making my own spear.
An advantage of poor 1970s Portrush TV signals and ferocious seaside storms was that there was quite an endless supply of 4 or 5 foot metal fallen TV aerial rods to be had. We did our best to fashion them to form swords or nettle bashers. Even a blow pipe! The aerial metal was light but pliable. A flattened end was easily filed into a perfect barbed spear head. Being lightweight and hollow, a little snag of roof lead (another story?) beaten into the end helped with one-handed control during the hunt.
At the harbour beach, I was dressed and ready: my short little flippers were easily managed going forwards but I just had to roll back into the water… that’s the way real frogmen with real full lenght flippers did it.
When in the water, face down and breathing settled – a world like no other awaited.
Those crystal waters.
Sand sparkling jewel-like. The swaying weed-clad ropes of moored boats. No sound other than a distant Seagul outboard or your own breathing through a rattly plastic tube.
You were always sure to spot a crab or two, scavenging far too far away from safety. A gentle poke would be met with a display of raised open nippers and a threatening spring up towards you. Quite a statement from those wee green rascals!
I was after flatties.
Snorkeling was sense-heightening, making it difficult to breathe steadily. Beautifully camouflaged in the sand, the dabs were elusive. Once your focus was in, however, they cheated themselves with tiny, tiny little plumes of sand from their gill slits or their barely discernable bulges around the eyes.
The act of ‘spearing’ turned out to be just a bit more tricky, with one timely tail flick propelling my prey safely from the target area. A great deal of poke, miss, flick, follow would take place.
Although I can never underestimate the initial elation, pure joy or sense of victory at my first ‘kill’, there were three sobering realities.
First, I had strayed well out of my depth: at that age I would never normally have risked swimming from the harbour beach to the Queen Elizabeth on my own.
Second, when back in my depth and with flippers grounded, I surveyed my prize. All I can say is that I was totally underwhelmed.
I had patiently selected my kill, aiming for something take-homeable, something plate-sized to be proud of.
Unfortunately I hadn’t factored the magnifying effect of my mask and the clear harbour water. What I had at the end of my spear was a 5 or 6 inch tiddler, not the monster I’d thought I’d stalked and cornered near a concrete mooring stone.
Third, ‘victory’ was graphically tactile: every minute sensory aspect of that moment of domination was transmitted along that spear and into my soul. It was intensly personal. There was no rod-line-reel in buffer between me and the act. No time to adjust mindset from hunter to victor.
That connection was instant and brutal.
At the dead end of the spear life had gone: glistening skin was parched and wrinkling.
At the living end, a confused boy was weighing things up in more ways than one.
1959 postcard, to Master Lawrence Brown in Magherafelt, “You should be here to fish!”
“There were two main sets of rock-steps we would use to access the bottom of Ramore Head. By far the more exciting was the set to the back of the harbour office, up the lane past the Harbour Bar. Up-and-over brought us to a calmer-than-most place at the base of the cliff.
But being right beside the outlet for untreated sewage at the big round harbour ‘chimney’ had its downside, however!!!
“On the other hand, that area was a great place to rescue lost buoys and mussel-clad flotsam but it was primarily THE plumb fishing spot with scavenging glashen, flatties and doggies gathered in the briny soup. (On calm days, Crawford would row round there giving us the certainty of a good catch without having to take on the seaweed with a good cast.)
Another brilliant childhood friend who always loved going spinning off the rocks behind the head was Johnny Millar. He and I fished there with our home made spinners, once even, bagging a two and a half pound white sea trout. Johnny’s dad was a man of few words, but not that evening when our cstch was paraded. And his lovely mum … as usual, she wouldn’t be happy if I didn’t head home feasted to the gunwales!
Fishing boat entering the harbour – painting by David Patton, based on 1968 photo by his brother Torney
“Hanging around with David McAuley (Jelly) always had potential for ‘fun’. I’ll leave it to him to tell you about his exploits in his dad’s very fancy Rover 2600.
“When two groups of friends had a common member, there were times when the groups combined. One fabulous day we played tig on top of, over, around the walls and buildings of the old RAF huts, just before they became the yatch club. We definitely took our lives in our hands but we survived.
“The really interesting thing was that we returned the following weekend for another session of roof top tig but it wasn’t quite the same, and it petered out in no time. Strange.
“Jelly was always edgy: you could rely on him to lead you into some sort of ‘trouble with a small ‘t’. His house, with that space station designer interior, faced directly over the recreation grounds. Walkers over Ramore Head and white-washed bowlers on the recreation ground greens sometimes saw (or heard) their worlds collide with ours: you see, Jelly had the biggest set of record player speakers that I had, and still have, ever seen in somebody’s house.
“All I’ll say is that with expert timing, superb volume control, an open window and a glint in the eye,… neither “Smoke on the Water” or “Radar Love” proved to be of any benefit to the delivery of that vital end-saving wood!
“So, happy days around the harbour. And yes, and we also did with the Brittannia, collect fossils, race our bikes around these paths at break-neck speeds. We did watch the fireworks, pipe bands, tennis competitions etc.etc., but I guess you will get lots of stuff like that! Best, Garry”
And Karen M, reviewing this blog says, “Oh it does remind me of those tales, Secret Seven or Famous Five, of childhood adventures, danger, climbing, swimming, stone steps and caves, skullduggery around every corner – and adults oblivious to it all!“
Portrush Tales – ‘Postcards from Portrush’ series:
(I) the Story of Eglinton St.
(II) the West Strand & Harbour
(III) Harbour Tales
(IV) the Recreation Grounds, renewed
(V) Landsdowne & Lower Main St.
(VI) Diving at the Blue Pool
(VII & VIII): East Strand, to the Causeway
90 blogs of ‘Portrush Tales’, Index is here.