The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Portrush fishing fleet (4): McMullan, Stewart, Doherty, Fleming, Gregg, Mullan, …..

Margaret McMullan says, “My late father-in-law Bobby and his brother Albert and John McMullan fished on the MVV ‘Family Friend’ – my husband Trevor worked on the oil rigs but if he was home or his work got slack then he often helped out. I remember waking up one morning to find a lobster climbing up my bed !!!! 🤣
“Needless to say we had lobster for tea that night. It nearly broke my heart though putting it into boiling water.”

The rafts at the harbour, the RAF boats, the fishing trawlers – all at the edge of my memory, and I am not sure if I am remembering them or just photographs and postcards of them. So, thank you to the folks who have contributed to this social history of the fishing fleet and of the Portrush men and their families at Portrush.

The previous blogs looked at the centuries of fishing in the waters around Portrush, and then of the attempt to make the harbour the base for deep-sea steam trawlers in the 1930s. But the fish shoals were elusive, the weather changeable, the markets fickle – times of gluts of fish that were unsellable and times unable to get the fish that people wanted, at the right quantities, to the right markets. The expected fifty trawlers a week just didn’t happen.

And the big deep-sea steam trawlers were stripping the sea of livelihoods. Even back in 1930, Portrush’s John Stewart’s highlighted the trawlers depleting fish stocks, and that only by fishing within the Skerries could he make a living.

Kerry Gregg writes, “The big development of the harbour never happened of course, its a pity but a fact that there is not much out there to catch now anyway – with modern fishing methods and high quality electronics, we have become too good at catching fish.
“I love the old photo of the steam powered trawler alongside the quay. They were a common sight in Fleetwood and other big fishing ports around England, but I suspect they were a rarity in Portrush.”

Tourism and the seaside air took higher priority, and visitors to Portrush in the 1930s “will find hours of interest in the magic of little coasting steamers and salt-crusted deep sea trawlers.” For the townie visitor, trawlers were perhaps a curiousity, photogenic, an unusual an infrequent and unusual sight – but they were the essence, the life-blood, the heart and soul of the town.

Wartime and restrictions and I don’t see any reports of that time. The fishing fleet from ports like Portrush were one of the key food supplies for the nation, and I assume the trawlers were armed and on the lookout for submarines recce’ing the coast. The photo above by Jack McConaghy (courtesy Raymond McConaghy) is “Harbour at War”, 1939 or 1940 – before the arctic convoys started and photographing of vessels in the harbour become a traitorious thing to do.

Ken Mcallister, a bit older than me, writes, “I remember 1943, when the fishing boats arrived in and berthed under the bins. My grandfather used to ask if they had any wee dabs, and he got the nickname “Dabbler” from Spud Fleming – so that’s why I am called ‘young Dabber’.  

And Ken continues, “I used to live at the bottom of Kerr St, Quarry Court. We used to wait for the horses and carts going around the harbour. Most times there was a spillage of course, and we happened to have a bucket handy to collect the coal. Butch Fleming used to spook the horse so we got quite a lot. 1944 was a good year.”

Painting courtesy Eleanor Bond, the caption reads,
“MVV Family Friend, Portrush 1955, skipper Bobby McMullan, crew Albert McMullan & John McMullan”
and Eleanor says, “This is a painting that a man in Portavogie did for us – where the boat originally came from.”

Sheila Brown: “Hi David, I have just looked at the blog. You have done a lot of research, its a great read. Before my time but a lot of names I know. When we came to Portrush in 1943, there were two big McMullan fishermen.

“Later on, in the 1950s, the clammers came to the harbour. We used to sit and watch the boats unloading every evening, about five boats, and lorries loading up with the clams. I used hundreds of clam shells making ornaments to sell in ‘The Shell Shop’ that I had on Main Street opposite the White House. They were popular presents to take home from Portrush. Those were the days David, maybe a slow way to riches but I enjoyed it.
“My late husband loved the harbour, with Richard McKay the harbour master at that time.
“Thank you for the wonderful history of Portrush, God bless Sheila”

Karen Monteith says, “Oh I’m liking this story more and more! And I think I may have bought a fair few of Sheila’s clam shells too 😂 maybe with a little disc of soap inside, I always thought they were very fancy x”

September 1957 and the newspaper article reports that the fishing fleet is now eight boat strong, and that they fish locally, in the Bann or Foyle, not further – and shush! do be quiet as at this moment the crews are sleeping, after being out all-night fishing.

The photo below left (sorry about poor quality) is news of another Portrush trawler, the ‘Aigh Vie’ – from left to right is John Colvin, John Wilson, Douglas McMullan and George Stewart, skippered by Robert Stewart and owned by R. Lynas. The photo is of them landing a record catch of almost 4 tons of grey mullet, at Portrush harbour, in March 1958.

The hard treacherous pretty scary part to me of fishing is the being out-at-sea, and then getting the fish onto the quayside. But the success of fishing as a business seems to depend on logistics – keeping the catch fresh / frozen, and getting the catch to markets. In the 1958 article below, the harbour-master John Doherty moans of the lack of freezing facilities at Portrush that would enable the catch to go to Scotland. I guess that shows the failure of the 1930s hopes of local catches, local port and processing facilities, and of getting the fish to local markets.

The Portrush fishing fleet is described then in 1958 as 20-odd fishermen, that’s sounds like about five trawlers, but the harbour looks pretty quiet in the photo below.

1950s, Portrush harbour

Ray McConaghy: “Great post David 🙂. Another name I remember was a youngster – well, same age as me – called Billy McLelland. I think his family were fishermen in the 50’s and 60’s?”

I see the name of another Portrush trawler, ‘Confide’, above, with ownership the same as for the big record catch sailing, with Robert Lynas of Coleraine with skipper John Wilson. It was October, late in the season, and this boat was the only one that ventured out that day – with the alarm raised and the lifeboat called out for its overdue return.

Wow all these newspaper reports and photos happened in 1958! It was a busy year. The photos above, courtesy Pete Doherty, with a newspaper caption, “Mr Doherty, his two sons and two brothers own between them the £1,500 Queen Elizabeth, which carries nearly 60 passengers a time round the Skerries and along the north Antrim coast.”

Eleanor Bond: “I’m sure you know Willie Gregg (left) was a great boat builder,” and Kerry Gregg adds: “My grandfather Willie Gregg beside dad’s boat, in 1965, at Quarry Court. And the photo with the three generations of Gregg is my brother Willie, my dad Billy, and my grandfather Willie, in June 1958.”

Janis B: “Thank you for this. We lived in Quarry Court at the harbour until we all were re-housed. So far from theharbour, it was very difficult for fishermen who’d been around the harbour all their lives. One retired man – Tommy M or was it McM – walked down to the harbour every day after breakfast, up for lunch, back down, up for tea. I used to watch him back and forth across the football pitch and to the harbour, no matter the weather.”

Trawlers in the harbour – 1960s? The painting of the McMullan ‘Fisherman’s Friend’ identifies it as ‘B79’, that’s registered in Belfast at that time, and the ones here registered as ‘CE’ is Coleraine.

Ian King: “Interesting to see John McMullan in the picture. There were (at least) two John McMullans in Portrush in the 60s. One was married to Rose so was called Rose’s John, to avoid confusion.  As a child I often wondered why a man’s name would be mixed up with roses. It was much later I realised the more prosaic truth.
I never did find out which was which (in person).
“He was good for me: my Dad arranged with Rose’s John to let me borrow his tender for the fishing boat when he wasn’t using it. I used to spend hours and days rowing around the harbour and yes, ferrying RAF sailors ashore for a shilling. Happy days. Truly happy. Cheers, Ian.”

And photo below left, smaller fishing boats, for closer to shore fishing. Left, from Pete D: “The big mullet haul” – I asssume this is the March 1958 bounty, as described above? And John McN comments: “You can tell by the smile on the face of the man looking at the camera that this is a very good day’s fishing! I think he is Old Tommy Doherty and the man immediately to his left is young Tommy Doherty.”
and from Stephen O’N, “That’s my dad at the back, Mack O’Neil, he’s the one wearing a wee hat”
Pete D: “All the local fishermen were involved. In that pic is Dad, my great uncle Tommy (‘Snowball’), my Uncle Jimmy, & looks like Jimmy Stewart.”

And, above right, photo passed on from George Lavery, who writes, “Salmon fisheries boat landing their catch – they averaged a catch of over 90 a day, in the 1960s / 70s,” and John adds, “I think the man is Spud Fleming – though don’t know who the young boy is.”
Lucy S: “I have a copy of the photo of my granda Jimmy ‘Spud’ Fleming and that young boy – I never found out who he was. I remember when we lived in Hamilton Place, the crabs would have got out of the sacks and walked up the tiled floor in the long scullery. I remember that noise vividly lol. Thank you for sharing these stories David. L.🙏
Stephen O’N adds, “….the boy with Spud is my cousin from Australia, his name is Shaun O’Neill, and that photo was taken in 1970.”
Kerry G: “It was 13th July 1970, and that photo is of my father Billy Gregg’s boat with 155 head of salmon in it, caught in the Ramore hill salmon bag net, that dad leased from Lord Antrim at the salmon fisheries, from 1968 to 1981. The boat was one of many that Billy built over the years, and yes indeed it is wee Spud who was helping dad to box up the catch, and then they were pulled up the quayside wall and into our shed – No.3, before the council saw fit to knock them all down. The fish would be collected by Sean Morton from Ballycastle who would call in his lorry on his rounds around all the salmon fishermen on the north coast, then those same fish would be iced down and be for sale in Billingsgate Fish Market the next day.”
and the power of the internet,
“I love these pics, I’m the 8 year old Shaun O’Neill from Australia with Spud Fleming (an absolute legend) – such great memories ❤️

And George Lavery shows his painting skills too: “I am working on this painting of the lifeboat being towed back up the slipway.” 1960s?
David Patton writes: “Another great history David that you have dug up! and nice to see other paintings too of boats. And tell George to get that painting finish, it is too good not to. 😇👍 !!
Well done to you too, for your hard work. 👏👏👏

Kellie M: “Thank you, I really enjoyed reading it. So many names synonymous with the Port…. names from my childhood too as my dad was a marine engineer and we spent many long days in the harbour (and harbours all around ireland) while he worked on boats.”

Margaret: “Hi David, I hope you can use this painting of our boat, with Albert McMullan at the wheel, Bobby McMullan standing against the wheelhouse, and Rose’s John with his hands in his pockets,….
Sorry there are not many photos of them – they were all very modest men.”

Margaret McMullan: “I remember when Trevor was helping out fishing salmon, we weren’t long married and uncle Albert used to knock us up for we always slept in 😊. Later when I took a walk down the harbour he’d be sitting mending a fishing net in the huts. There was always someone around the harbour that you knew. I can still remember the smell of the bait barrel! So many happy memories of living at the harbour!

“I remember waking up one morning to find a lobster climbing up my bed !!!!🤣 Needless to say we had lobster for tea that night. It nearly broke my heart putting it into boiling water.”

Brian S: “I used to meet the McMullan trawler every morning to get the small flukes to use as bait for our lobster pots. My means of transport was a message bike with a carrier over the front wheel. The trawler was normally crewed by Albert operating the engine throttle at the bow and Bobby steering and John throwing the rope ashore.”

Caroline Dorsett writes, “Brilliant David, I got totally lost in it! Photos are fantastic. I remember dad filling some of the boats with fuel and being given huge (well they seemed huge to a child) bags of lobster. We wondered why the dog was acting strangely one night and wouldn’t come in. He had found one of the lobsters making its way down the garden, having escaped from the bag and ultimately the pot. Dad then took it down to the rocks and released it, saying it had earned its freedom after its encounter with the dog!
“And I remember the fishing competitions later with massive conger eels being hung up to view. Is it any wonder that I’m not a fan of swimming in the sea – its got bits in. Sometimes big bits! Great stuff David.”

Eleanor Bond: “David, this is my dad, John McMullan, with the cap, and Kenneth McMullan, sitting on the big stone at the side of the shed that used to be near the bridge many years ago.” And Margaret continues, “It was sad day though when they took the huts away – it was the meeting place, the talking place, where the fishermen met and watched the weather to decide if it was suitable to set sail.”

The photograph above of the harbour in 1960s shows a smaller fleet, now, only four trawlers. David Patton writes, “The photograph and the painting of the four fishing boats is the harbour as I remember it. Looking back at the Dock Head wall with the big billboard, Minihan’s shop and of course part of the old Ramore street. The Harbour Bar, the old wooden shed at the railway crossing bridge that always smelled of tar. Across the bridge there was a pub that belonged to a Kitty Quinn. I can remember as a wee boy looking for my father: I would look in the pub to see if he was there and if he was, he would put me up on a stool and treated me to a glass of Club orange.”

And below, “My brother Torney took a photo of the fishing boat as it arrived at the harbour, in 1968, and that was the inspiration for my painting it. Torney knew two of the men on that boat, Richard McKay and Jimmy Stewart.”

And Margaret McMullan continues: “We used to get quite a lot of prawns when the boats called in – we were eating like royals and never appreciated it at the time! Lovely salmon in the salmon season, and now I have to buy it and it never tastes as good as it did then. Monkfish boiled in milk and onions and some times made into scampi 🍤.

“I remember you had to hang the monkfish to bleed it; Trevor hung it out at the bottom of the clothes line, but a neighbour came to my door and said, ‘I don’t want you to get a fright but someone has hung a nasty thing on your line.’ 🤣

David Patton writes, “Again, all credit to you David, I love reading your writing, you have captured a time in history that could have been long lost.”

Fishing, always peaceful and happy? Rather a valuable and scarce resource, and stocks and fishing rights have been managed for centuries. to be managed, and poachers and over-fishers dealt with. Above left is 1950 and the Fleetwood trawler has been fishing off Portrush and Portstwart for 9 days, then sails over to Donegal but is attacked by three motor boats, with 20 irate Irish fishermen in each, with the cabin sprayed with bullets!
Centre right, 1970, a Donegal trawler caught by a Royal Navy, fisheries protection boat, for illegal fishing off Portrush, withpunishmens of fines and nets confiscated.
And right, salmon wars of early 1980s, with a couple of fisheries protection vessels against an armada of Donegal trawlers, fishing just off the Portrush coast. From early June, three months of the salmon running to the rivers, with some successes of trhe protection vessels like with impounding a drift net that was an enormous 4 miles long, but puny against the increasing size and commercial aggression of the larger trawlers being used.

In the 1960s there were royal air force boats stationed in the harbour, as support vessels for RAF Ballykelly as described in the blog ‘Leander House girls and RAF lads‘, informally helping the fishing fleet in rescues though not as protection vessels.

As we have seen, the big plan for Portrush harbour as headquarters of a fishing fleet back in the 1930s came to naught. Another innovation for harbour commercial activity in the 1960s though, was as a container depot, with the quayside developed with big cranes for hoisting containers onto ships:

Above left, photo courtesy Pete Doherty: ‘The photo says on the back ‘Jimmy Doherty, harbour-master, with Captain Jones of the MV Wirral Coast. The container service commenced on 13th September 1963. Closed down 15th June 1968. Jimmy Doherty died on 3rd May 1968.’ He was harbour master before my dad, but tragically died at the age of 47 I think.” The activity traded for 5 years, but I guess the size of and access into the harbour went against the location.

Arthur D: “My grandfather Arthur Dunlop was the foreman docker at the harbour in the ‘sixties when the container ships came in. He came hone every night with a bag of fish. He loved the job and the fishermen who he became friends with. I remember him mentioning the Doherty’s.”

Complementing the trawlers out at sea, Joe Mullan was promoting sea angling. The photo caption above reads, “Fisherman Joe Mullan, Chairman of the Ulster Federation of Sea Anglers, who travels far and wide for the sport. He is a Master Angler and an Irish Boat and Shore International.”

Garry McI:lwaine: “I was a regular at Joe Mullan’s fishing tackle shop on Main St. As a youngster, any walk “down the street” would include a diversion to Joe’s.
“Outside I’d drool over the line of rods and reels in his window. (I’d seen them many times but the sin of coveting is deep-set!)
“Inside, there was always a welcome from Joe. When three or four of us wandered into other shops like Graham’s or The White House, we always got that feeling that eyes were on us! Not with Joe. He was always engaging. He loved telling us about his black and white photos and stories behind them. He said that he’d love one of us to earn a species specimen badge. 
We always tried to find out where the best place to dig for rag worms was. He’d have two answers: it was a secret he’d never tell anyone, or he dug them at night so nobody would would find his place!
That was Joe… especially as we’d often see him collecting his “fresh worms” from the platform at the railway station!”

The Belfast Telegraph’s Peter McMullan, writing about his day of plentiful fishing in July 1968. The trip was prompted by Joe Mullan and hosted by Jimmy Stewart (left in the photo) on the Girl Phyllis, Jimmy taking a break from sleeping after his day job of night shift of drift-netting for salmon. Mr Mullan’s efforts led to investment by Coleraine Council on the slipway and facilities. The article writes about 30 boats exclusively for sea angling, with over 300 sea anglers a week visiting Portrush.

Going back to the trawlers, Margaret continues, “My late father-in-law Bobby and his brother Albert McMullan and John McMullan known as Roses John fished the Family Friend – my husband Trevor worked on the oil rigs, but if he was home or his work got slack then he often helped out. The fished local waters but it depended what they were fishing as to what time they fished.

Er, why Roses John? Eleanor Bond replies, “My father’s mother was called Rose, so he was referred to as Rose’s John – that’s how they referred to the different McMullans.”

Margaret, I ask, what happened when the boat arrved back at Portrush with their catch? “Well, there would have a buyer for their fish waiting on them at the quayside. Then, the boat was cleaned and nets were sorted for their next trip. During salmon season their nets, drift nets, could be seen spread out on poles to dry, at the harbour. There were nets, they were fixed nets, that were hung at the salmon fishery as well.”

David Patton: “My brother Terry, with nets spread out on the old railway crossing at the harbour, 1960s, with the fishing boats, four, in the harbour.”

Kerry Gregg writes: “I was lucky enough to get out fishing on the “Family Friend “ with Bobby, Albert and John. I was about 10 at the time, I was out many times and always on a Saturday morning or on the school holidays. We lived at the bottom of Kerr Street so it was just a short walk over the bridge to the quayside I would ask Albert the day before and set an alarm for 4am and away we would go, usually over to the area around the temple at Downhill and they would “shoot” the nets and ropes – the method was called seine netting. I would sit behind the wheel house and watch for the net to be brought up and the catch sorted into size and then into wooden fish boxes, that was repeated a few times then they would steam home and land the catch.

“I still remember after 55 years the tea that was served! Loose tea, sugar, milk all in the same pot and heated up – little washing up to do! Looking back on it now I was more of a hindrance than help but Bobby, Albert and John were the best of people, all very decent and they put up with me and my thousand questions about fishing.Such wonderful people and times.”

Time moves on though. Margaret tells me of the retirement of the McMullan family and then that the Family Friend boat was sold in 1974. “I never had a run out on it myself”, she says, but I used to get out on the lifeboat when they had a special day for flag sellers. My late father-in-law Bobby McMullan was cox’n.”

Interviewed in 1975, below, Tommy Doherty comments, “..out of a fine fleet of fishing vessels only one remains, because there isn’t much left in that part of the coastline to fish for”, and the too-quiet harbour is put up for sale:

“The present owners, Anglo-Irish Transport, a subsidiary of P&O, want to get rid of something that isn’t making any money….. For the present harbour-master, Tommy Doherty, it may mean the end of a job that he has held for 6 years. In fact, Tommy’s family have been connected with the harbour since the ‘Forties. His father was harbour-master and when he died, his son Jimmy took over. He died suddenly in 1968 and Tommy was given the job.”

Three big men of the harbour: Louie Craig, Tommy Doherty (Harbour-master) with Billy Gregg (boatbuilder / Willie Gregg’s father), about 1997.

Trish Gray: “David I remember so many of the names in this post. Bobby McMullan was such a lovely person, kind and gentle. Jimmy Stewart (coxswain of the lifeboat after Bobby, I think) had a small fishing boat – The Lady Phyllis, I think! Jimmy used to allow us ‘Lifeboat kids’ access to his rowing boat – Ian King, Dorma & Alan Cunningham, my brother Martin, myself and I suspect many others. I seem to recall Ian saying he used to ferry some of the RAF crew to the other side of the harbour!

Portrush,N. Ireland - the fishing fleet, with stories and photos....
1972 (courtesy Trish Gray) : centre, postcard, 1980s : 2023 (courtesy Maureen Kane)

“I laughed about Butch spooking the horses during the war and collecting the dropped coal! I remember coming home from high school, to a black bin bag on the kitchen floor, making strange noises – lobsters! Like Margaret McMullan says, we were living like lords and didn’t realise it!

“I remember huge conger eels being landed near the high diving board! I was very glad though, that no-one suggested we should have it for dinner!

“One year when I was heading back to Edinburgh, 1980, my Dad got up at 5am to meet Jimmy Stewart coming in to the harbour, and got a salmon. That salmon got well packed in ice, wrapped in a black bag, and put in my suitcase. You can imagine the face of the airport security guard, searching my case. They let me through with it – with hindsight, I’m surprised it wasn’t confiscated… I haven’t tasted salmon like it since!”

Evening glow, Portrush harbour and west strand (photo: author)

Pauline Rigby: “Oh David, you have brought tears to my eyes!
FYI My side note: my dentist here in Scarborough remembers the likes of Butch Fleming and Dessie, and his brother has a yacht in Portrush harbour now! Its a small world! His assistant laughs at the pair off us when I go for treatment and a check up (a catch up!) 😂😂xx

And finally, the photo below, one of my Portrush summer holidays, 2013, 10pm at the harbour, seeing the unloading of the catch of cod and the higher-value scallops, and the chinese restaurant up lower main st buying the bucket of scallops. Dessie Stewart there told me, they’ll get a few hours sleep then 4am sailing back across to Scotland.

Time moves on, things change, morph, transform, renewed – hopefully I can do one more blog of today’s geeration of fishing. And as I’ve said before, I don’t go for the Good Ol’ Days view of history myself – after all, in 30 years the kids today will be remembering these days as being the Good Ol’ Days – but rather, the life lessons, the example that these folks gave us, of hard work, modesty, humility, respect – and of hilarious fun and stories.

=====fishing. =======
Portrush – the Fishing Fleet, series:
(1) ‘No Man’s Land’ at Portandhu
(2) ‘Nobody’s Child’ at Portandhu

(3): “Fifty trawlers a week” at Portrush Harbour
(4) “Portrush as new fishing port: History is repeating”
(5) Portrush: HQ for Fishing fleet? Good times, bad times
(6) The Portrush fishing fleet

and hopefully, if I can get input from folk:….
(7) A life in the day of the Causeway Lass

‘Portrush Tales’ by David MartinIndex of topics

The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Portrush fishing fleet (3): Good times, Bad times

All the postcards and photographs that I see, like the 1930s one below, Portrush harbour looks pretty quiet, low key, idle, under-used. The Scotch ferries that used to deliver thousands of visitors onto Portrush quayside, stopped at WWI and did not re-start.

So, 1930s, and Portrush is tranquil, lovely, holiday mode.

All that is to end: a quiet harbour no longer. 1932 was going to be the big year, the big turning point. Ten years since the Partition of Ireland and Mr Steven, the Minister of Fish in NI, thinks of the marine and fishing heritage of Portrush, and of the links with the mainland, and proposes a boom, with those links upgraded to an industrial scale – a production line of Scottish and English deep-sea steam trawlers, processing eight a day through Portrush harbour.

“Mr. G. Steven, Inspector of Fish (second from left)”, with ship-owner, skipper, & fish salesmen. Actually I think Mr Steven looks like de Valera – the same tall, lanky imposing – and visionary? With his cunning plan, Portrush will become the headquarters of the north sea fishing fleet (see the last blog), with fifty sea-going steam trawlers a week off-loading their slippery catches on the harbour quayside, for curing and pickling.

“It is part of the scheme between the Ministry of Commerce, the Portrush Urban District Council, and the LM.S (N.C.C.) railway company, to make Portrush an important fishing port,” and, “with thanks to the great cooperation from Portrush Urban District Council, PUDC,” he enthused. His Big Plan was seemingly coming to fruition, with the first boats of the season, the Fraserburgh-based trawler Brecoden, landing its catch at Portrush on February 19th 1932..

The year before, the headlines heralded, “Portrush as a base for the fishing fleet – history repeating itself!” But some reservations, and other headlines, a month later:

“Portrush as herring port?” – read: “Portrush as a herring port???????? Go and boil your heid.” And a ‘reliable authority’ said, the prospect of that happening was remote.

Harbour, 1910s (Postcard collection, courtesy Sheila Brown

I think the Steven Plan was unravelling, right from the start.

Its impact on tourism? Oh the plan was clarified, downgraded a bit, it was not for Portrush to be a curing centre, with the industrial units that would involve – but just off-loading, barreling, and despatching the fish off to the mainland and elsewhere. And to be sure, Portrush’s primary role was leisure and health, and that lesser fishing activity would not affect that.

We are going to welcome with open arms the sea-going trawlers from Scotland and England, fifty per week, dragging their 400 feet long nets behind them, stripping the seas of fishing livelihood? Portstewart fishermen had already complained about the trawlers at the fishing Inquiry a bit earlier, in 1930. They had won a three mile exclsuion zone around the coast – but the steam trawlers were happily fishing within that zone. Local fisherman would (bravely) approach the intruder trawlers, record their name and number, and pass the informaton to the Ministry – but no action would be taken. Fish stocks were being depleted, even in close to the shore: Portrush’s John Stewart’s complained that he could only make a living at fishing within the confines of the Skerries.

After the trawler Brecoden in mid-Febriuary 1932, Mr Steven expected 15 trawlers during the rest of February, building to fifty a week when the herring season started in April. I suspect that in reality that the pace was rather slower. There was no mention of trawlers or fishing business for the next weeks, and the next news is at the end of March, that more large steam vessels were due to arrive at Portrush on Tuesday:

It was almost a disaster though. The two big trawlers, Ocean Lifebuoy and Ocean Sunlight, were outside the harbour on the Tuesday, but had to wait before entering, because of the sea swell.

A few days late but their arrival on Friday, 1st April, was announced with great success, with their catch being paraded on Portrush quay.

Harbour, slipway at the little beach – 1910s, 2023

The vessels had been stuck out in the bay on the Tuesday, were still stuck there on the Thursday afternoon and then, unable to delay any longer, they had moved off to steam for Moville.

Mr Steven was not well pleased by their lack of appropriate commitment to Portrush as a base. The article says he motored over to Moville and commandeered the pilot boat to take him out to the trawlers. I imagine him berating the trawler captains, beating them mercilessly until they submitted and agreed to steam back to Portrush. They were ‘escorted back to Portrush’ – Mr Steven leading a naval fleet of destroyers, gunships and helicopters to ensure that they did not deviate from the intended route to Portrush.

There were good sales though of the fish though on Portrush quayside:

….and the skippers said they were “more than satisfied with the harbour and the facilities provided.”

The skippers having read out the statement prepared by Mr Steven to the TV cameras, Mr Steven ordered his gang to take off their blindfolds and to untie them, gathered up their fingernails and gave them back to the trawler captains. They were released, otherwise unharmed.

It was hoped their fingernails would soon grow back.

The photo above: “Mr. George Steven, HM Inspector, NI Dept. of Fisheries, discussing operations with the captain at one of the fishing boats.” The photo shows the skipper, doing his best to hide, forcing a sombre grimace of a smile for the camera under the menacing glare of Mr Steven, towering treateningly over him, with his hands, bleeding and bereft of fingernails, buried deeply at the bottom of his great-coat pockets, out of sight of the cameras.

The newspaper photo caption, “Ocean Lifebuoy and Ocean Sunlight, the two trawlers moored at Portrush harbour. Portrush Fisheries Development – drifter trawlers arriving at Portrush, which is ideally suited for the landing of fish”
And on the right, “‘Admiral’ Fleming waiting to welcome the trawlers at Portrush” – you may like to say, which Fleming that is of
.

I read that routinely, the trawlers followed the shoals to off the cöast of Iceland or to the White Sea – up over the top of Norway and down to Arkangel in the Berents Sea, the coast of Russia – phew what a terrible treacherous journey. The prospects now of trawling in the local fishing gounds, only about 20 miles from Portrush, and the catches landed daily. The fish will be fresher, at better prices without the transport distance and costs, and will be in Ulster markets the day after. The freshness of the catch was indeed great – so fresh that some of the plaice were reported as still jumping while they were being boxed up.

“Ulster fish buyers are greatly interested in the project” but there was near-disaster from the first, with unfortunately “a number of them at Portrush on Tuesday were disappointed when the trawlers failed to arrive.”

Courtesy Eleanor Bond, “This is a painting a man in Portavogie did for us – that is where the boat originally came from.”
Inscription, “MVV Family Friend, Portrush 1955 skipper Bobby McMullan, crew Albert McMullan & John McMullan

The rest of April was then quiet for trawler news, until reports of those two Ocean’ sea-going trawlers landing their catch at the end of April and early May – the lack of news suggests the 50 trawlers a week just wasn’t happening. And the vagaries of Atlantic weather: “owing to the strong north-westerly gale, the trawlers had to cease operations in her last trawl for fully two days.”

With not everyone happy at the idea of a big fish industry in an otherwise tourist town; of bad weather cutting short the number of trawling days; of difficulty of access to the harbour in bad weather; of weather delays meaning wasted journeys for Ulster fish buyers, at the quayside waiting to buy….. The omens are not good.

And the behaviour of the sea-going trawlers and the impact on local fishermen? The next fishing article I see is our friend the Ocean Sunlight vessel, of Great Yarmouth, that darling vessel that offloaded at Portrush in April, but in June she is getting in the bad books and being fined for trawling too close to shore, as in the article above.

The big plans for big scale trawling came to naught. I do not see it mentioned much more. The expected fifty sea-going trawlers a week landing catches at Portrush became rather a small number, perhaps just a few trawlers. Even those few trawlers caused aggro for the local fishermen, with their long dragnets, and coming in so close to the shore, to scour what shoals they could find.

Kerry Gregg writes of family photo above, ‘My grandfather Willie Gregg, beside dad’s boat, in 1965’ and reviews these articles and writes, “Morning David, I have just read it and all is good. You must have done some digging to get those paper cuttings etc. The big development of the harbour never happened of course. A pity, but a fact that there’s not much out there to catch anyway now. With modern fishing methods and high quality electronics, all very high tech, and we have become too good at catching fish (imo).
“I love the old photo of the steam powered trawler alongside the quay – they were a common sight in Fleetwood and other big fishing ports around England, but I suspect were always a bit of a rarity in Portrush.”

Portrush settled back to its holiday-making focus. The next year, 1933, townsman visiting Portrush “will find hours of interest in the magic of little coasting steamers and salt-crusted deeop sea trawlers” off the Blue Pool – which suggests to me that trawlers were an infrequent and unusual sight.

(Oh and for interest, you see there that Portrush population in 1933 was 2,952, half-day was on Wednesday, and there were FOUR arrivals and departures of Post daily.)

PUDC councillors go a round-Britain tour in 1934 and come back with big plans to deveop tourism in the town, including developing Portandhu. The fishing industry goes quiet, in the background; a next big fish news item in 1938, with a review of the prospects for the herring industry, looking at Ardglass.

The article uses a stream of bad words for the fishing industry, like “is in a precarious position,” “inability to find a market for the glut of fish,” their catch “practically unsellable.” Mr Steven is still in place as Inspector of Fish, is readying lorries at Portrush and Ardglass and Larne to tackle the distribution problems in getting the fish to Ulster depots. He moans that the Province buys in one quarter to one half a million pounds of fish, but bought and brought from Hull and Aberdeen, and is there not enough fish in Ulster waters? So many French trawlers spotted off Adglass, 23 of them, and there are 54 fisher girls from Scotland and Wicklow ready and waiting to prepare the fish – but the vagaries of the weather were keeping boats in harbour, there was bad luck with finding the shoals, and long periods of idleness.

Weather – finding the shoals of fish – delays – markets & distribution – times of a glut of fish, other times of drought – unable to get the fish to market, the wrong type of fish. All in all, the big plan for Portrush harbour as headquarters of a fishing fleet in 1932 came to naught.

Jumping on to 1950s, the postcard above, the harbour still looks quiet.
There was another attempt to make Portrush a commercial harbour as a container depot, in the 1960s; another was for catamaran to Oban, in the 1970s.

The photos above, the activity of Portrush as base for shipping containers to Fleetwood, I assume the same issues of size of and access to the harbour were too challenging.
Photo, left, courtesy Pete Doherty: “…says on the back ‘Jimmy Doherty with Captain Jones of the MV Wirral Coast. Container service commenced on 13th Sept 1963. Closed down 15th June 1968.
‘Jimmy Doherty died on 3rd May 1968.’ He was harbour master before my dad, tragically died at the age of 47 I think.” (left photo watermark indicates L’Atlier, the ‘Photographer of Portrush’, see blog.)

And David Patton (with his long family connections with the harbour), remembers and paints the 1960s: “The photograph and the painting of the four fishing boats, above, is the harbour as I remember it. Looking back at the Dock Head wall with the big billboard, Minihan’s shop and of course part of the old Ramore street. The Harbour Bar, the old wooden shed at the railway crossing bridge that always smelled of tar. Across the bridge there was a pub that belonged to a Kitty Quinn. I can remember as a wee boy looking for my father: I would look in the pub to see if he was there and if he was, he would put me up on a stool and treated me to a glass of Club orange.”

1960s – RAF Portrush, see blog ‘Leander House girls and RAF lads

All in all, the big plan for Portrush harbour as headquarters of a fishing fleet in 1932 came to naught.

In this blog I have teased about Mr Steven, one might say of his ‘old-fashioned’ interest in solid things, products, Tangibles, not just in Portrush as a ‘service’ industry, Intangibles.
But full credit to him: he had a plan, thinking what can be done, aiming to make things better for the populace, and he worked tirelessly for it – as I think the vast majority of public servants do.

Evening glow, Portrush harbour and west strand (photo: author)

PS
Reviewer comment: “..I love your bit about imagining the wonderful Mr Steven brow-beating the captains and crews to come to Portrush! 😂
David: Er, why do you think I am joking?
Reviewer: Er, you are, aren’t you?

============
Portrush – the Fishing Fleet, series:
(1) ‘No Man’s Land’ at Portandhu
(2) ‘Nobody’s Child’ at Portandhu

(3): “Fifty trawlers a week” at Portrush Harbour
(4) “Portrush as new fishing port: History is repeating”
(5) Portrush: HQ for Fishing fleet? Epic Fail

and hopefully, if I can get enough infput from folk:….
(6) Portrush harbour 1940s to 1990s
(7) A life in the day of the Causeway Lass


Portrush - Great Institutions · The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Fishing fleet (2) “Portrush as new fishing port: History is repeating”

As we saw in the first blog, Portrush – to be the headquarters of the fishing fleet, with the big sea-going steam trawlers to land their catch and for fish processing at Portrush, then a quick turnaround and the trawlers back out to sea again. Fish in Ulster shops to be so much fresher, higher quality, and so much cheaper.

Fifty trawlers a week expected to be landing their catch at Portrush from next month.

It is 1932, and the future is bright, according to Mr. Steven, the Man from the Ministry, in the blog, The Fishing Fleet: “Fifty trawlers a week” at Portrush Harbour.

“Portrush as new fishing port – history is repeating.” When my dad moved in to Portrush in 1960, he asked around to learn of the history of the town and was told. “It doesn’t have any history.” That was very unfortunate and ill-informed, as I hope from these blogs that you know now of the rich history of our town! Even back a hundred years ago, in 1932, Portrush had centuries of history and there were plans to re-new itself as a big port and for fishing.

Like, a thousand years ago, Portrush and War Hollow out towards the White Rocks features as a battle ground at the end of the Viking era; and Dunluce Castle and the big abbey at the Northern Counties feature throughout the Norman era. For fishing, there’s that sea-faring Portuguese map of 1468, the oldest map of Ireland, with Portrush marked, a place of note, a place for doing trade.

The 1600s were bumper years with Sorley Boy MacDonnell at Dunluce and Portrush as his port for nipping back and forth to his homelands in Scotland, but Plantantions, and those naughty King Charles’es and troubles and invasions, resulting in the destruction of the castles around Portrush . a century of troubles.

The big men of ancient Portrush: Magnus Barefoot, the last of the maraudng vikings; Strongbow, de Clare, of the Normans, who drank and fought his way up to Dunluce Castle; of Sorley Boy MacDonnell, there at Dunluce Castle, him finding the wealth from the Girona; and the Elizabethan Sir Thomas Philips, wanting to make Portrush headland an island again, as a garrison

The 1700s: decline dead derelict dilapidated dirge-y drudge decades, and departures to the New World. French and Belgian boats fished in the area and called in, but the harbour wasn’t up much, just a blip in the lee of Ramore head. A visitor in 1750s described it as being like a Cornish creek, with sandy banks. I guess it was small, tidal, something like Portandhu. No accomodation, nowhere for the traveller to stay,

In that 1820s map, there is still only that one road leading from the town to Coleraine. In an 1839 survey, the population of Portrush was only 337, with “employment based entirely on the sea”. Those early 1800s years, writers say of salmon smacks from Mayo calling at the harbour, at ‘Paddy’s Pier’, a rough quayside, as a drive-through at Portrush to order ice and then to dash on to Liverpool to win the prize of being the first and bringing the freshest catch.

The harbour was built in the first half of the 1800s, and then in the second half of that century, the growth of the town with the railways and the Causeway tram and there is boom in visitors.

There’s been a hundred years of big ferries from Portrush – that advert on the left is the regular ferries starting up, 1836 – but in 1932, Mr Steven is saying, Yay! Fishing is our Business! Fifty trawlers a week expected at Portrush from now on!

Amazing sketch and paintings of the harbour, from David Patton (he has just completed a successful exhibition of his work at the Arcadia). “David, really great writing, I love it. I came across a couple of drawings, one of Portrush harbour in 1835 from the West Strand. I made a sketch of the drawings, and added colour and I send them to you to include, if you like.”

=========================================

In Portrush Tales, I like eye-witness accounts, and backed up by other documents. One delight is to find the newspaper article of October 1883, where the writer is chatting with an old Portrushian, 91 years old so born about 1792, and who remembers Portrush through the 1800s.

The article, such great turns of phrase such as a “ramble in imagination”, “preserved in imperishable lines” on the “memory of my quondam friend.” Yawn, what on earth is he rambling on about?? Its like watching the 1950s movies of excursions to Portrush: sooooo slow, one wants to wind them up to go three times faster. So where I have quoted from the article, for your relief I have taken out the most drivelous pieces of his writing.

I imagine the scene, the two guys sitting on a bench at the harbour gossiping – just like the photo below, sent me from Eleanor Bond: “David, this is my dad, John McMullan, with the cap, and Kenneth McMullan, sitting on the big stone at the side of the shed that used to be near the bridge many years ago.”

And I imagine the 91-year old gentleman’s kids and grandkids coming and going, enjoying listening to their grandad’s stories, joining in, just like in the photo below, from Sheila Stirrup: “Outside the fisherman’s shed, my Uncle Ken McMullan, fisherman and lifeboat man. He is with me (Sheila Hamilton), my sister Joanna Hamilton, and my cousin Jennifer McGuiness nee McMullan, in 1961.”

The guy remembers Cranagh hill, that was quarried out for stones for the harbour wall and became Waterworld, and he remembers that post was brought on foot, by a runner. About where Portrush fishermen lived, I assumed that they were always around lthe quay head, like where Ramore St is. But the guy says that it was the principle businesses of Portrush that were around the harbour:

And at the top of the quay was the big house, the biggest in the town – maybe one-time the customs house, and hotel where VIPs like Sir Walter Scott and Thomas Carlyle stayed on their literal visits to Ireland. The Portrushian remembers, “The road sloped down to the water; there was then no walls at the place, and the water-cress grew in profusion on the sides of a little spring of water.”

The grandkids like hearing his stories an he tells them: “Two or three little houses stood where the Northern Counties Hotel now stands, in one of which there is said to have resided a man, so fat that he could turn the scales with forty-two stones on the opposite scale.”

The writer comments that “Portrush must have been for long years a non-progressive place” – I think for sure that applies to the dilapidated 1700s century. But he recognises that even through those drab years that hardy fishing folk lived in the town, generation after generation, as we saw with the Patton family.

It all sounds very bliss and romantic.

David Patton: “Memories of my late brother Terry, on the old railway crossing at the harbour, with the fishing boats in background” ; and right, of lobster pots, down along the harbour wall.

The stories of Portrush history recount of the large fleet of sailing smacks, carrying salmon from Ballina to Liverpool, with Portrush to replensish ice on their catch. That period is described as ‘before the harbour was built’. I presume that the large commercial vessels in the harbour pushed the smaller smacks aside, with the local boats moving over to Portandhu.

As well as the harbour busy-ness, the news is of salmon stocks being depleted was also a smack to that salmon activity. An 1844 article says about ‘the laws lately made for the preservation of salmon’ –

Years later, 1894, maybe another sign that fishing as a livelihood is supported by visitor trade, the writer for ‘The Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic news’ rag describes his happy tour of the salmon fisheries at Portrush and around the coast:

Do I remember one of the benefits of Brexit as being that it will be wonderful for the British fishing industry? In reality here we read of the depletion of salmon stocks and the need for regulation of salmon fisheries, away back in the 1840s. Still in 1906, a big Inquiry to try to recover salmon stocks. The article reports of the boom of trawlers around our coast – 125 trawlers with drag nets of 400 feet, 4 men per net, so a huge industry with 500 men – and of the Department trying to impose a 3-mile exclusion zone to recover fish stocks. Portrush and Portstewart fishermen face the ruin of their livelihood.

My assumption is there is always a dispute between local boats trying to make their way and to preserve stocks for life, against commercial sea-going trawlers and ocean-going Japanese whalers, asset-stripping the area and moving on, leaving the seas dead.

My perspective, I see of the happy excursion trippers to Portrush, enjoying sunny day boat trips to the Skerries and to the Causeway. The 1883 writer drools over the humble fishermens’ cottages, thatched roofes held down with bog-wood against the storms, with fishing nets hanging out to dry, oh how lovely, oh how photogenic, giving “a picturesque appearance to the locality, and would have made excellent material for the art-lover to transfer a representation of to his portfoilio.”

But of the reality of the hard grind of fierce winter storms (salmon fisheries photo below, courtesy Maureen Kane).

Maureen: “Excellent blog, such a good article. gladly do use the photograph. I did notice an error though, you had only one ‘m’ in ‘accommodation’ in the paragraph beginning 1700’s. 🙂

The ferocious storm described, 1894, batters the town, and two fishing smacks being sunk at the harbour, with several fishermen and their families deprived of their livelihood.

(And, just my guess, that one of those two wrecks was uncovered at the inner beach at the harbour, last year.)


Sheila Stirrup: “The fisherman is William McIntyre. William lived in Garden Court too. I bought the canvas in the gallery in Giant’s Causeway car park. His grandson painted his portrait.” And a grandson, Jim Allen, found the photograph, described in the Portandhu blog.

The 1883 newspaper writer noted about hardy mariner families, living in the town for generations, like the big Macs – the McMullans, the McIntyres, and Mcallisters. I had noticed this newspaper advert, 1906, with the drontheim boat of the late John McAllister for sale, and I see that family name, about the big catch in 1907.

By coincidence, Ken Mcallister contacts me today, with the story of family tragedy: “My great grandfather, James Mcallister, was drowned in the old lifeboat, trying to save lives.” I see his name:

===================================

And so, we are back around now to 1932, and the prospects of Portrush as big fishing port again. There is the scene below at the harbour, May 1932, the first of the big steam trawlers unloading their catches, with fifty trawlers a week expected.

And a quieter scene at the harbour, Valentine’s postcard from Sheila Brown’s collection I think, that looks like a steam trawler at the quayside:

=========================================

Hopefully I can gather some bits to bring the story up to date.

David Patton (exhibition at the Arcadia) ; Pete Doherty: “The big mullet haul”

The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Fishing fleet at Portrush Harbour (1): “Fifty trawlers a week”

“The catch was the biggest yet landed by one trawler, there being nearly four tons of fish of first quality – turbot, roker, cod, plaice, whiting, brill, lemon soles, black soles.”
Photographs of the steam trawler Ocean Sunlight unloading at Portrush harbour, Tuesday, May 3rd, 1932:

The journalist looked over the story of the town and wrote headline with confidence, “Portrush as new fishing port. History is repeating.”

The herring season would start in April. We are “expecting 50 trawlers a week will visit Portrush.”

It was like years of planning and effort by the Ministry of Fish were coming to fruition. Five years earlier, 1927, the Rotary Club meeting at Belfast called for two new harbours in Northern Ireland. The ‘Klondyke’ fishing banks were rich for white fish and were just up between the Portrush coast and the west coast of Scotland – but the fishing fleet took their catches away to Fleetwood for landing and processing.

‘Why didn’t the boats save time and costs and bring their catch in locally?’ asked at the Rotary meeting. Because harbours in the province ‘could not support fishing boats larger than a yawl.’ The herring industry had bases at Buncrana and at Oban; but locally, boats could only land their catch at Ardglass – 30,000 barrels of herring landed there in the 12 weeks of last season – but no facilities there, boats could not shelter there, and there was no room to increase the harbour size.

There were ideas for developments of facilities at other ports, like at Magilligan, or Killough, or Kilkeel, or Portrush, or Portaferry, or Larne.

Mr George Steven, the Inspector of Fisheries – him, the tall one in the above right photo – was fired up for development at Portrush harbour. Nicely, the shoals of juicy plankton, that marine microscopic food, were drifiting nicely towards our coast, and fisheries were looking to Portrush for a base for landing and processing their catches. The town had the advantages already of great road and rail infrastructure for onward transport to markets.

And the harbour had capacity: the Scotch ferries ended at the start of WWI, and bettter dredging of the Barmouth gave beter ship access to Coleraine, so Portrush harbour had capacity for opportunities. The harbout authorities, the PUDC council, and the LMS Railways were all committed to supporting the development of a fishing facility at the harbour.

Their efforts seemed to be paying off, with in February 1932 a big scottish fishing trawler landing their catch at Portrush:

The big catch from the Fraserburgh trawler – a great success, and promise for the future! The harbour was lauded to be the headquarters of the trawler fleet. “Mr. Steven hopes to see fifteen trawlers arrive at Portrush next week”, the last weeks of February. And, “The trawlers worked within 20 miles of Portrush, which is an ideal landing place and equipped with all the necesary facilities,” drooled Mr. Steven, the Man From The Ministry. “Why should trawlers have to do the round trip to Stranraer, 180 miles, or the 300 miles to Fleetwood and back, when within easy range there were equally good facilities at Portrush?”

The promise of Portrush, in a new role, the headquarters of the trawler fleet. And Mr Steven, the Man in the Raincoat, paid tribute to the cooperation from PUDC – the stalwarts Mr W. I. Cunningham & Mr. W. R. Knox – and the LMS Railway Company.

The expectation of two trawlers coming in April was still big news, in early April. There were going to be great benefits of price and freshness. Mr Steven, the Minister of Fish, reported that, up to now, fish caught in the White Sea or Bear Islands by sea-going trawlers were landed at Stranraer or Fleetwood, for processing and onward transport: fish were 3 to 6 weeks old by the time they reached Ulster shops. Further those Ulster customers were asked to pay first class prices for only second or third class fish. Instead, those stream trawlers, of 90 to 100 tons weight, could quickly get to Portrush to land their catch and get back out to sea again, and could be fishing for five or six nights a week, rather than just three.

Do you remember that name, Mr Steven, him from the Ministry of Fish, from the Portandhu blog? Him in 1924 saying, “If it was up to me, I’d scrap both of Portandhu and Portballintrae harbours,” he said, riding rough-shod over the local way of life. He Had A Plan, he had his sights set on the development of Portrush harbour and was for sure talking up the fishing enterprise opportunity: “It is expected that fifty trawlers a week will visit Portrush with their catch.”

That sounds great – or is it a bit worrying? Like, Portrush is continuing to develop nicely for rest and relaxation. PUDC has just opened the recreation grounds for play and relaxation, and there are nice cafes and bathing boxes and the diving boards have been installed at the harbour, like shown in the 1930s postcards from the great collection of Sheila Brown, and there was regular swimming and sailing regattas. Sailing regattas too, with newspaper below of the regatta in August 1929 – the start of the race, and centre, of ‘Edith’, owned by James Kelly, winning a drontheim sailing race – and right, 1934, big swimming regattas and displays at the harbour.

Er, so there will be fifty trawlers arriving per week, chugging in and out of the harbour, while you are doing your ‘Portrush flyer’ dive from the high board and swimming out to the raft?? And you reckon an industry of workers on the quayside there, unloading, curing, pickling, packing, despatching the catches, while the visitors to the town look on and hold their noses at the smell while they pick their way over the blood and guts and fat of fish carcasses on their way to their meal at the Harbour Bar or the Ramore?

Hmmmm…. fifty trawlers a week in Portrush harbour. Hmmmmm….. Do you think that would work?

==================
Portrush fishing fleet – at Portandhu
(1) ‘No Man’s Land’ at Portandhu
(2) ‘Nobody’s Child’ at Portandhu

Portrush fishing fleet – at Portrush harbour
(1) “Fifty trawlers a week” at Portrush Harbour
Next issues….. hopefully will get contributions from folk….
(2) Portrush as new fishing port – history repeating itself
(3) Portrush harbour 1930 – 1970 / Doherty era
(4) …..through to tourism
(5) deep sea creatures, kraken, octupuses, orcas and mermaids.

Portraits of Portrush: Patton of the harbour
Postcards from Portrush: (III) Climbing the stone bins, spear guns, & other harbour adventures
Postcards from Portrush: (II) the West Strand & Harbour
Portrush – the Harbour story
Portrush – Living on an Island
‘Teas and Ices’ cafe and the Great Train Robbery
Jimmy Molloy and the Harbour Bar

Family · Portrush - Great Institutions · The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Portandhu (2) ‘Nobody’s Child’

Amazing story of Portandhu, the little harbour of Portrush. Of if being owned by – Antrim County Council – or was it PUDC, or did it belong to the government in Ireland?? Who pays for its upkeep?? And Gregg’s dinghy pool, and Coke Beach Club, and boat trips to the skerries, and Sea Angling Club activities, regattas, and displays of traditional sailing boats.

So, this is Portandhu, the Black Port, or Port-an-too, the Port of the Waves, from where maybe a dozen boats of the fisher folk of Portrush fished and pulled their boats up onto the slipway and shore, like in the 1900 photo below.

“Looking south from along the front of Lansdowne Terrace c.1900” (photo source: History of Portrush FB)

We left the story at the end of Portrush fishing fleet (I) ‘No Man’s Land’ at Portandhu, with Antrim County Council, Portrush Urban Ditrict Council, and the Department of Agriculture in Dublin playing Pass the Parcel of Portandhu, hoping that the music did NOT stop with them and they would be declared as the owner and be responsible for its renewal and be landed with paying maintenance for it.

Postcard, 1924 (courtesy Sheila), and Lily does her duty by sending the usual fob-off postcard, with the usual promise to write a letter another time, which will never happen.

In that unhappy limbo, the harbour continued to decline. Later the Department of Agriculture and Fisheries of the Dublin government did big repair work in 1920. The ‘new harbour’ survived its ‘baptism of fire’ of big storms in November 1920.

Lansdowne & Portandhu, photo courtesy Ian King, about 1967

I assume that after the big renovation work that the Dublin government expected to hand over ownership to Antrim CC, and responsibility for upkeep to PUDC; but Ireland partition come along shortly afterwards, and the handover of ownership was not resolved.

1964 – Kerry Gregg: “Me and my brother Willie, on the Islander, one of many of that name my family have owned over the years (my own boat is called Islander). Dad was a boat builder and he built that boat to carry passengers to the Skerries, Dunluce castle and Portballintrae in the summer months,” (photo source: George L)

Things weren’t any better for Portandhu after partition though. The state of Ulster harbours appeared before a NI Development Committee in 1924. Their Mr Steven reported that the building of Portandhu harbour had been good – but only for a post-war employment activity, a MakeWork scheme, but that the harbour (and also Portballintrae’s) was not much used and he recommended scrapping them.

Portandhu, all seems bliss and tranquility for the nice touristy postcard, 1926

So, no support coming from the NI government then.The matter of ownership of Portandhu ad of its upkeep, or even if it should be supported at all or just left to rot, was still not resolved, and the Portandhu Problem festered for two generations more.

In 1929, PUDC meeting, the local fishermen raise the matter of the state of Portandhu harbour again. The outcome?
Well just for variety, the matter of the harbour for fishing facilities is referred to…….. PUDC Bathing Committee.

Looking over the history over the years, ever since 1889, everyone had understood that the Antrim County Council was the owner and was responsible for harbour upkeep – hence the big lobbying over the years of the County Council. However…..

..this revelation appears in 1933, a shock, that the harbour was NEVER transferred to Antrim CC, they did NOT accept it, and they are NOT in charge!! Antrim CC breathe a big sigh of relief as they realise that they have no obligation for the harbur upkeep.

So, Portandhu harbour – Nobody’s Child. Mr. Knox, the PUDC chairman, puts his head down on the desk and sobs,

Otherwise, times are good in the 1930s though, and Portrush is developing. There is a BIG influx of fishing boats and trawlers coming into the main harbour, and big vsits with the naval fleet. Here, 1934, a PUDC group visited sites around Britian and they come back with big plans for Portrush. There is a proposal to construct a large swimming pool at Portandhu, with boxes and seats and sun beds on top of the shelter next door.

Checking again who is responsible for Portandhu and and who would put in the funds to develop it? At PUDC meeting in 1938, Antrim County Council reiterate that they have NO responsibility for Portandoo, but generously that they are willing to chip in a few bob for its repair, but no other obligation.

So, who owns the harbour, who is responsible for its upkeep? Not me, ‘gov.

Portandhu, described as ‘No Man’s Land’. Mr Knox puts his head on his desk again and wails.

But overall these years are getting ready for war, with priority on defence; indeed the same day as this article are big agreements between UK and Eire on coastal defence. I think the topic of Portandhu is quiet through war-time and then austerity years.

Portandhu Pool – Opening day, 16th July 1966. A lot of local kids in the photo: there’s Kerry on the right of the tall lad, and his brother William with matching jumper on the left (photo from Kerry Gregg)
Trish: “We got an afternoon off school from Carnalridge when Billy Gregg opened Portandoo! Total delight!”

Ian K in the photo, and Emma M: “That’s my mum Pamela M in the black swim suit in the front  😊

The Portandhu Question has bugged PUDC since the 1890s, for sixty years. The council team, and the stalwart Mr Knox – him who moaned in 1933 that Portandhu was ‘Nobody’s Child’ and who wailed in 1938 that it was ‘No Man’s Land’, has persevered manfully to resolve, but unsuccessfully. It is quiet on this topic, but it comes before PUDC again in 1959:

The stalwart Mr Knox has to admit that Portandhu is not part of Portrush at all, that it is actually owned by the Free State of Ireland.
Well, how can we get it repaired? someone asks.
Well, we can ask the Eire government! wails Mr Knox.

Mr Knox is led, sobbing hysterically, from the council chamber.

Lansdowne, 1954

There is an appeal to Lord Glentoran, the Commerce minister, to exercise the ‘wisom of Solomon’ to resolve the ownership impasse:

Whether it was his Solomonic wisdom, or PUDC perseverance, Antrim CC, Lord Antrim, the Eire government, or …….. anyway, things seem to improve pretty quickly. In July 1960, the NI Ministry is agreeable to PUDC subsiding a scheme for the acquisition and restoration of Portandoo, with the Ministry of Commerce giving some funding.

Mr Billy Gregg bought the harbour:

1968, Mr Billy and Mrs Joan Gregg, at the opening of the crazy golf course which he designed and built himself (photo courtesy Kerry

….and there are hopes as that being a first step for something bigger to come:


Liam McC: “My late young brother Kieran rowed one of Gregg’s boat from the harbour to-and-from Portandhu every day. I travelled with him one evening – “We’re OK if we keep between those two rocks !” – in a constant state of prayer. Round Ramore Head he had to pull hard to keep us ‘on track’. My unsteady gait when disembarked wasn’t entirely a matter of ‘sea legs’.

1964 – Kerry Gregg: “The boat in the picture is called the Islander, one of many of that name my family have owned over the years (my own boat is called Islander). Dad was a boat builder and he built that boat to carry passengers to the Skerries, Dunluce castle and Portballintrae in the summer months, for the droves of Scottish visitors we used to get (photo courtesy Kerry).

And July 1966, is the opening of Gregg’s pool, Portandhu pool. A couple of my brothers and cousin in the photo above in 1967, but me, I am too wee to go on the dinghies. My cousin Heather says: “That’s Carol, my sister, on the dinghy, I don’t think I was ever on them. We did take the boat out to the Skerries out from Portandhu a few times, I think a friend of your Dad’s [that’s Mr. Gregg] took us. I loved it just the sound of the sea and birds such a feeling of freedom away from the rat race.”

(source: George L) Michael H: That’s me, Paddy B, Duck Mcd and Alan H in the dinghies! One of my birthday parties at Billy Gregg’s pool!”

Anne R: “I remember these, it was brill!
Andy H: “Many a lovely sunny day spent at Potandhu.
Claire H: “Thank you for sharing this . Greggs pool was amazing remember this so well. My brother D tied a string around my dinghy in case I would float out to sea! Fantastic place to spend my childhood.” 

and Dawn R C: “Many a time I spent there as a child. Never brave enough to paddle too deep. I remember the tide coming across the wall. And a special treat of playing crazy golf. Thank you for this article.”

Of Portandhu and Lansdowne, our own family album, I see one of my mum, next door at the Lansdowne shelter, her and Dad visiting Portrush with a Kesh tennis club excursion, in 1947. And I guess happier days for the army in Northern Ireland, them putting on an open day on Lansdowne green, me and my brothers in 1965.

So, Mr Gregg’s ventures – the development of Portandhu harbour, dinghy pool, crazy golf, BOAT TRIPS TO SKERRIES, fishing. My family photos above, brothers and cousin out in the dinghies. Happy days with the army too, with me sitting on the tank on Lansdowne green. The show of boats, like the advert below, 1966.

Joanne Redmond. “I love this story!  😍❤️  here’s photo below of me and my Dad at the paddling pool at Portandhu, in July 1976.”


Traumatic memories too, so close to the sea! Karen Monteith writes, “Oh, I have the clearest memory all my life of being at an outside pool where it met the ocean. I must have been very small and it was so terrifying to me! But years after, I could never place where i was. I thought it was the one at the Arcadia or maybe at Portstewart, but looking at your photos, it was clearly there!!!”

I remember the paddling pool as being deep, wonder how peoplepaddled there! Kery Greg writes, “The shape of the actual pool was deep, 4 foot deep at one seaward end, and shallow at the other side for wee kids to paddle.”

But – all was to disappear once the Troubles got into full swing.

The hordes of scots folks who used to come – all stopped, and the collapse of tourism, Mr Gregg sold the harbour on to the government in 1975. Kerry Gregg writes that there was a few years when it lay empty, then the Council took over running of the Portandhu site. I remember interviewing for a summer job with the Parks & Gardens department in 1980, that would include working at the dinghy pool.

The council secured sponsorship from Coke for a Coke Beach Club, at Portandhu and other places around the coast, beginning in 1982 – many of you remember tha Club (though no-one has photographs of it 😦 ):

Caroline Craig takes up the story: “Ah brilliant, David! I have very fond memories of Billy Gregg’s swimming pool, as we called it. My granda would take us down and we just thought it was the best thing ever! An outdoor swimming pool complete with pedaloes! This was late 70’s, early 80’s. There was the small, sandy beach complete with changing huts. I also remember the crazy golf course beside it. You could spend the day down there.

“The Coke Beach Club was also down here and we also played games on the green opposite the pool. It the weather was bad (more often than not) there were activities in the old Lifeboat House which is now a lovely cafe/restaurant. We also loved to scramble over the rocks and gaze in wonder at all the fossils. We’d try and count them but would lose count as there were so many.

“The excitement! Many a happy day was spent down at Portandhu. I still have the happy, happy memories of fun times spent here on many a summer’s day.”

Coke Beach Club – What’s On ads, 1982 & 1983 (oh and Talks & Tours at the Countryside Centre too, I remember those)

Kerry Mce: “Coke beach club – best summer job ever ❤️ . I remember a great bunch of kids who came everyday twice a day! Brilliant craic with the kids and staff. Fishing conger eels out of the pool before the kids got there in the morning was always a challenge 🤣🤣🤣

Jonny D: “Loved it. Twice a day every day in the summer. Crazy golf and target bucket.

Victoria McG: “We all went to the Coke Beach Club. I remember the wee boats, going up into the where the Shanty is now if it rained. I also remember getting yo-yos to play with! We loved them. They were branded with Coca Cola, Fanta etc!”

Glynis A: “Gosh I’d forgotten all about the wee Coke club in the summer months. Loved that! And I remember them giving us coke yo-yos to play with inside the old boat house (now shanty) if the weather was bad! Best bit was getting out on the wee boats and being right next to the waves in the sea! Happy memories 💕 thank you for sharing.

Freddie Fleming: “Traditional boat festival at Lansdowne. I shot this one in the early nineties just after the Northern Counties was destroyed by fire.”

Sheila K: “Wow! What a lot of information in that, David! Why would there not be interest in it?? All generations will have their own memories of the various stages of Port an Dhu through the decades. Poor Mr Knox – flogging a dead horse … and how was it ever declared part of the free state? Also, the pic of the children at it – that tall lad – reminds me of an Only Fools and Horses episode where Del enters Rodney’s art in a children’s competition and he wins and Rodney (an adult in his 20s) has to spend a week in Spain doing Kids’ Club activities 🙈😂

2005 – photo above, and Portandhu is derelict (photo courtesy Maureen). There’s the shop, that hired out the golf clubs and the dinghies and sold ice cream and seaside stuff, and there’s the crazy golf course.

Kerry says: “Love the photos. I remember the little shop well. Dad built it at the same time as the pool, and mum worked in it, very long hours. The council bought it from Dad, but then after the coke sponsorship ran out they abandoned it and let the whole place fall into ruins.

“I often thought it was a waste of a great resource for sailing and water sports (anything that has a shallow draft).”

Digger works, clearing the harbour, 2017

Maureen Kane: “Very good David – I always remember my parents talking about the harbour being owned by the Dublin Government! Tthere was work carried out there before Covid, in 2017, with diggers moving rocks from the harbour and improved slipways, giving much better access to the harbour.

“Then that year there was a Skerries Roads Regatta to celebrate the best harbour, with some sailing done from that harbour.

“Then the area became a good viewing point for the Airshow!!” (these photos, courtesy Maureen)

Kerry Gregg, the son of the Mr Gregg, writes: “The east side is almost impossible to get into now. It was never a great harbour, always dry at very low spring tides and difficult to get into unless you knew exactly what you were doing. It is even worst now since a storm in the 1980’s took away part of the harbour wall and almost blocked the entrance. It would need to be cleared by professional divers and explosives to open it up for anything other than shallow drafted boats.

Ian I:”And the radio one road show was another great attraction, along with the Coke Beach Club..
..and launching from the harbour was so easy,as long as you dodged the submerged rock on way out……Great article.”

“The main Portrush harbour is OK to use, but it is the point of Ramore Head that is the dangerous bit, but any good seafarer should be able to transit it with caution. It is not great though for the cruise ships that have started to use Portrush on their planned stopovers. They have to anchor in the bay and run tender vessels into the harbour, but any swell in the bay puts a stop to that operation, and the ship clears off to a “safer” port. If a floating jetty was put out at the east side (which is sheltered from swell) and into deeper water then yes, it would be a safe place to land passengers but it would take a large investment in a good serviceable jetty / pontoon arrangement, which I doubt the council would want to invest the money into.”

Louis Craig, Jim Doherty harbour-master, and Billy Gregg (source: George L)

Portandhu: always lots of opportunities, lots of possibilities, potential, always practical decisions on scale of investments and levels of usage, and working with local entrepreneurs to enable local enterprise.

David: I felt so honoured to receive this feedback from Willie Gregg: “Thank you so very much, you have made my day. It’s all part of the very best times that Portrush ever had. I well proud of your story 👍, honestly so proud of everything you have put together , Well done David 👍

The town clerk, Samuel Cunningham, 1960, looked at the pile of documents related to Portandhu harbour, with the pile of papers “beginning from before I was born!”Amazing work and perseverance by the Portrush District Council, years and years of effort. Maybe all local government activity takes time, involves coordination and agreement with lots and lots of other organisations and committees, and always a scrabble for funds and approvals.

Sheila K: “So much interesting history associated with this little spot … all those changes over the years! I’m sure there are generations of Portrush folk who each have memories of what it was like in ‘their time’. Thank you for this, David 😊

The photo below, courtesy Maureen, of Portandhu today, in gorgeous weather.

It is a happy place. Buffeted by tides and wind and time, ups and downs over the years, hopes for great new developments to see it buzzing, with so many happy memories, of Gregg’s dinghly pool, of Coke Beach Club, of fossils, of the promenade and the delights of the sand and the seaside and the fresh winds and the views out to the East Strand and Rathlin and Scotland. Love it.

===========
For info:
Portrush fishing fleet (I) ‘No Man’s Land’ at Portandhu
Portrush, fishing fleet (II) ‘Nobody’s Child’ at Portandhu

Newspaper articles, from https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/
the Northern Counties – the night the ‘Counties died
Trains arrive a Portrush: 1850s – The Steam Train Cometh
My summer council job, around Gregg’s dinghy pool, Portandhu lido
Jimmy Molloy and the Harbour Bar
Portrush – the Harbour story

The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Portandhu (1) ‘No Man’s Land’

‘Gregg’s dinghy pool’ or the Lido or Portandhu or Port-an-dhu or Portandoo or the Coke Beach Club – down at Lansdowne there, with the old lifeboat house / shelter / toilets, with the big painted sign on the wall saying BOAT TRIPS TO SKERRIES; pier, dinghy pool, little fishing harbour, in whatever state of repair you remember them. It was a harbour for small fishing boats, with the majority of Portrush’s small fishing boats there.

So, this is Portandhu, the Black Port, or Port-an-too, the Port of the Waves.

Port-an-too : the Port of the Waves. Storm, 2021 – photo: courtesy Maureen

So, why was it there, why was a need for a harbour there when there was a big harbour on the other side, the west side of Portrush peninsula? Well, the fishing shoals were off the Skerries, and Captain Watt (him of Watt’s coal yard, which became Watterworld) tells of the longer journey to get the boats back round Ramore Head to the harbour, and of the difficulty for small boats of the tides and winds there, and of local lives lost – McAlister, Magee, Doherty – in 1874.

(Source: PUDC submission by Macauley & Watt to Antrim County Council, 1903)

Capt. Watt says about 50 men’s livelihood depended on fishing, with 500 more dependants – though that sounds like an over-large number to me, it could of course be a fisherman’s tale. Before the harbour was built, fishing boats berthed at Paddy’s Pier, outisde the Harbour Bar. But in bad weather, tides and winds made getting round the ‘Head difficult for smaller boats. And I assume the demand on the harbour for shipping for Coleraine and cross-channel ferries, and harbour fees, were further difficulties for smaller boats. I read that the number of fishing boats reduced from 40 to 14, with the majority based at Portandhu.

Portandhu Pool – Opening day, 16th July 1966. A lot of local kids in the photo: there’s Kerry on the right of the tall lad, and his brother William with matching jumper on the left (photo from Kerry Gregg)
Trish: “We got an afternoon off school from Carnalridge when Billy Gregg opened Portandoo – total delight!”

I see newspaper articles in the 1850s waxing lyrically about boat trips and excursions to the Skerries. Below, the writer in 1881 rambles from Portrush to the Giant’s Causeway, and says of Portandhu as a place for boat excursions or parties, going fishing in the bay or out to the Skerries. Boats were drawn up at night onto the shore, in these years before the Portandhu harbour was created.

His article describes ‘Port-an-dhu’ as being ‘the Black Port’, though his learned colleague reckons the harbour as ‘Port-an-too’ – ‘the Port of the Waves’ – and I see that name in newspaper articles of the time.

1968, Mr Billy and Mrs Joan Gregg, at the opening of the crazy golf course (photo courtesy Kerry)

Portrush was a compact fishing community in the 1800s, and families lived there for generations. Here it is James Martin (no relation to me), having fished for all his 84 years life, telling the Commission of the need for a fishing harbour, in 1884:

First though, a reminder of how little there was to ‘Port Rush’ in the 1830s, as shown in the map, below left. The fishing buildings – ice house, customs house – are around the harbour – there is just nothing on Ramore Head. No sign of any creek or inlet at Port-an-too on the map either. Visitors though were starting to come to the town, and then the train arrived in 1855, and then the masses came to walk around the Head for the views. There was a cast-iron turnstile at the Giant’s Washtub cauldron, and walking on past the quarry which will become the lower putting green of the recreation grounds.

The 1880s were great times for Portrush with the trains, the Causeway tram, Scotch ferries and golf starting up. Here, the new Northern Counties owners got together with the landowner, Lord Antrim, and they build the road to allow the drive up around the base of Ramore Head and on past Portandhu to the east strand.

The 1830s map, there is nothing that looks like an inlet, a creek, a harbour. But in 1887, the ‘most important improvement is the new fisherman’s harbour at Port-a-dhu’, with rock-blasting and work for making a breakwater, with public funds supplied by the Board of Works. The early 1900s map, above, there is the grand Lansdowne development and road, the driveway around the base of the ‘Head, the lifeboat house – and there is Portantoo / Portandoo / Portandhu with a breakwater.

Postcards, 1906, courtesy Sheila Brown, showing the Lansdowne development and sports and music on the Northern Counties green

Port-an-too – the Port of the Waves, and it lives up to its names with damage to the breakwater in big storms, in 1895. Now October 1903, PUDC representatives (MacAuley & Capn. Watt) complain to Antrim County Council that the harbour was built in 1887 but (rather rudely) ‘as done by Government officials … it did not seem to have been as substantially erected as it might have been.’ Now 15 years since the harbour works, they seek work to improve the fishery pier and harbour. They report of that storm damage to the breakwater, and as not repaired that the creek was filling up with debris.

That year, 1903, was big lobbying for improvement to the harbour. In February – well, it is like one of these training courses where you have only a minute to make your pitch to the Senior Manager, visiting for the day. The Viceroy, Lord Dudley, is at Portrush, having his lunch after his round of golf with Miss Hazlet. The fisherman Thomas Martin, steps up to make his elevator pitch. He tells His Viceroyness of the bad condition of ‘Port-an-too’ harbour and asks for its improvement. The Lord says he will follow up, and indeed he sends his agent to inspect the harbour. The National Lifeboat Assocation and the Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction also inspect, and for sure they identify the great difficulty with the harbour.

Things seemingly move fast! The Viceregalness elevator pitch was at the end of February, the inspections, plannings, costings and proposals. In July, the Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction, the government of Ireland body based at Dublin, is chasing up Portrush Urban District Council, the PUDC, to ask what they want to do about the proposal.

1964 – Kerry Gregg: “The boat in the picture is called the Islander, one of many of that name my family have owned over the years (my own boat is called Islander). Dad was a boat builder and he built that boat to carry passengers to the Skerries, Dunluce castle and Portballintrae in the summer months, mainly the droves of Scottish visitors we used to get .” (photo courtesy Kerry)

The proposals in 1903 have a range of costs from £4,000 (the whole hog piece of work, including fixing the breakwater) down to £2,000 (improvements to the pier only). Those amounts sound pretty small, but today’s money, that’s £620,000 down to £310,000. (That sounds a pretty major investment to me, some financial burden on Portrush – over the years we see lower and lower scales of work being proposed, with costs down to £200 in 1903 prices.)

Documents showed that the original work was done by the Board of Works and responsibility was handed over to the ‘Grand Jury’ of the county, which became the Antrim County Counil. Captain Watt strongly urges the Antrim CC to take up the funding support offer from the Agricultural Board.
The action from this Antrim County Council meeting? …. to refer the question to their Finance Committee:

Things may have happened fast in 1903, but 18 months later, May 1905, the (Dublin) Agricultural Department chases up Antrim CC to see if they wished to accept the offer of financial assistance – and to hurry up, as the offer is closing.

And the response from Antrim CC? Well, the matter is referred to…….. the Finance Committee again.

Northern Counties gardens, 1904 image; colorised, and the black and white version
Left, July 1904, “Having a good time here but weather not the best. Am giving up and going home on Saturday.
Right, 1915, postcard to Mrs. Joe Halshead in Oldham: “Many thanks for the big box of flowers which arrived all right today.” (For reassurance the back of the postcard is printed with “This is a real photograph” (postcards courtesy Sheila Brown Collection)

No progress to report, and then 1910 is the next big round of discussions. Around Ireland, ownership of small ports were being handed over from the (Dublin-based) Department of Agriculture and Fisheries, to the county councils. But Portandhu harbour has deteriorated so much, now described as ‘practically useless’ – even described as ‘derelict’ in an Antrim CC meeting – and it is not handed over.

The local fishermen beg PUDC to follow up on the offer from Antrim CC:

By the way, the names list of the local men in the article is awesome – I recognise the names Hopkins, Ross, Doherty, Stewart, Fleming, Patton, Martin, McAlister, from other blogs – men of the sea and heroes of the lifeboats.

Amazing – one of the names is William McIntyre, and Jim A writes, “Portandhub – my grandfather sailed from there in the first half of the last century. The photograph is Granda McIntyre in his drontheim ‘Helen’ with his children James & Helen (my mother) at Portandubh” with the White Rocks in the distance.
And I find newspapers recording his winning ways at Portrush and Portstewart regattas, for example, in 1907:

The harbour repair costs had been estimated as over £3,000. The Antrim CC and Piers Commission reckon though that the fee could be much less, about £500 or £600 – a smaller scale of work, with use of waterproof sticking plaster, etc – and on that basis then Antrim CC would be willing to contribute…… up to £250.

Oh, and on condition that Portrush UDC also contribute a quarter – and that they then take over responsibility for all future maintenance of the harbour.

Considering that the original major works to build the harbour lasted only 8 years before the big storm damage in 1895, and that the Antrim CC are now only offering to contribute a measly £250 for a bodge patch-up repair job to Portandhu before they wash their hands and run away and leave PUDC with ownership and future upkeep costs……. PUDC did not accept their offer.

The harbour continued to decline and later the Department of Agriculture and Fisheries themselves did big repair work in 1920. The ‘new harbour’ survived its ‘baptism of fire’ of big storms in November 1920.

I assume that on completion of the big renovation work on the harbour, that the Dublin government expected to hand over ownership to Antrim CC, and responsibility for upkeep to PUDC; but Ireland partition come along shortly afterwards, and handover of ownership was not resolved.

Loud music on Lansdowne green!
Left, an historic photo! I dentified the image as being of Sharples circus, and newspaper archives had them as having a pitch on Lansdowne Green, in the 1920s. The posh residents thought the circus was un-cool though – noisy, busy, and spoiling the Lansdowne’ promenade – the only promenade that existed in the town at that time.
Right, 1980s, Radio 1 Roadshow – Kid Jensen with Bruce Penhall (photo courtesy Caroline Dorsett)

Partition, Northern Ireland now, and the state of Ulster harbours appeared before a NI Development Committee in 1924. Their Mr Stevens reported that the building of Portandhu harbour had been good – but only for a post-war employment activity, and that the harbour (and also Portballintrae’s) was not much used and recommends scrapping them.

Portandhu, 1926 postcard
A couple of my brothers and a cousin, yellow dinghies at Gregg’s pool, about 1967 (Martin family album)

So, partition of Ireland, and we wlll have a partition of this story at this point, and come back to the second part in a few days time. If you have any photos, like of Gregg’s Pool or of Coke Beach Club that you’d like to share, let me know / best, David
===========
For info:
Newspaper articles, from https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/
the Northern Counties – the night the ‘Counties died
Trains arrive a Portrush: 1850s – The Steam Train Cometh
My summer council job, around Gregg’s dinghy pool, Portandhu lido
Jimmy Molloy and the Harbour Bar
Portrush – the Harbour story

School days · The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Carnalridge Primary School (IV) the Millar years

“As a former pupil, I felt honoured to be appointed. I was Principal from October 1980 to August 2010. I was made so welcome. It was a delight to find that one of my former teachers, Mrs. Rennie, would be my Vice Principal, and the friendly faces of Mrs. Greer the caretaker and of Mrs Longman and Mrs Kelly were still there in the kitchen. The school Board of Governors were excellent, and as well I was blessed to have excellent teachers and assistants, and parents who volunteered so often to help. And most of all, the amazing pupils – we were all part of the Carnalridge family.”

David Millar, Head. Mrs Jean Baker, Miss Mary Rennie (former Vice Principal) and Mrs Lottie Leonard – retired teachers, attending the opening of the new school building

In Portrush Tales I only write about topics that I have some connection with or that grabs my interest. Me, I wasn’t at Carnalridge but nephews and niece were, and as teenager I’d be in badminton matches with Ian McIlgorm, and with my brothers we might go to youth events at Ballywillan Presbyterian Church and be at the Manse maybe after a watchnight service for a youth social with the Frasers – Mrs Fraser was a teacher at school I think. I got my NHS wire-framed specs from Millar’s the opticians downtown, before Harry Potter made them stylish so not available on NHS any more. And David Millar himself and his brother were Inst with my brothers, and buddies with Victor a few doors down Croc-na-mac, CSSM, etc. etc.. So, Portrush connections and wheels within wheels that get my interest.

The previous blogs on the school –
Carnalridge Primary School (I) the Bankhead years
Carnalridge Primary School (II) Bankhead, Revisited

Carnalridge Primary School (III) the McIlgorm years

So, to the Carnalridge business. James Bankhead retired in 1966, Mr McIlgorm took over as Head for ten years, then Mr Murdock for five years, and then Mr Millar. And David Millar himself writes, “I was pupil at Carnalridge Primary School myself from 1957 to 1963, during Mr. Bankhead era, then Inst, then teacher training at Stranmillis College. I taught a few years in Ballyoran PS in Dundonald before getting married and returning to Portrush. I taught at Killowen primary school in Coleraine when Don McIlgorm was Head there. He was such a great help to me and encouraged me to apply for the Principal role at Carnalridge – he had been so happy as Principal there.

David Millar: on the left, one of the teeny weenies, front row in the 1957 school photo;
above right, tallest, in the 1963 school photo

“As a former pupil, I felt honoured to be appointed. I was Principal from October 1980 to August 2010. I was made so welcome. It was so great that one of my former teachers, Mrs. Rennie, would be my Vice Principal, and the friendly faces of Mrs. Greer the caretaker and of Mrs Longman and Mrs Kelly were still there in the kitchen. And the school Board of Governors were excellent. I would like to say in all the thirty years that I was in Carnalridge, they were so supportive. In all that time I think we were always in agreement. They were excellent – the best that one could hope for.

The school as it was, rather drab looking, and 1982, sale of old mobile classrooms as part of refurbishment

“The school buildings had served the school well but with their age it was a continuous job of patching up and repainting of walls. As the number of pupils increased there was need for more classrooms. Some of the original mobiles were removed and new mobiles obtained. For lack of space two of the mobiles had to be sited on part of the grass play area. From the start I pushed for a new school building.”

“As well as the excellent working with the Board of Governors, I was blessed to have excellent teachers and assistants, and parents who volunteered so often to help, We had a great PTA, Parents Teachers Accociation, It was already established in the school when I came, and over the years the group had numerous fund raising events that supplemented the buildings and equipment budget. We were able to turn the old toilet block into a structured playroom, to set up a school library in the corridor for all pupils, and to set up a designated office and new staff room in the old building.

Nicola Taylor: “I was at Carnalridge Primary, went on to Coleraine Girls in 1984. No school uniform back then. I remember Mrs Baker, Miss Rennie, Mrs Patton. and Mr Millar, and Rev. Frazer who used to do assemblies on a Friday and help with lunchtimes in the hall. Also Mrs Millan in the kitchen… cornflake tarts, pink custard, spam fritters, milk at break times..”

“After school clubs were not that common when I came to Carnalridge. When at Ballyoran PS I had helped with the SU, Scripture Union, and I started the after school SU group at Carnalridge, and with the enthusiasm of several teachers we met every Tuesday. Other clubs such as sport clubs and French club also started.. The SU grew, and had residential weekends in Dergangagh, Ballycastle, Kilkeel and Belfast, and was for many years the biggest SU group in any N. Ireland primary school.”

School trip to Holland, 1985. Photo courtesy Graeme Elliotnote, school uniform has been introduced!
Front row: Peter Keen, Robert, Graeme Elliott, Jonathan Hutchinson, William Edgar, William Newton, ? , ?, Fiona Watson, Nicky Duddy, Thomas McVeigh // Front: David Lynn, Kerry Mcfadden, Lindsay McCaughen, Diane Duncan, Hannah Cavelleros, Victoria Young, Katrina Sharp, Patricia Hutchinson, Kellie Mairs, Louise Donaghy

Victoria Y / McG (in the above photo): “Yes, I was at Carnalridge 1980-1987. My memories include the freezing cold toilets 🥶 , Mrs Baker & Mrs Rennie were just the best people, and Mrs Millen? She was a dinner lady/supervisor. She was so lovely to us all. I also remember about P4, us getting our uniforms – I hated it, we were so used to wearing our own clothes. I also remember, about P5 with Miss Rennie, the first computer arriving, a BBC micro I think. It was kept in the corridor. Everyone loved getting to use it.”

P7 leavers, 1986 Photo courtesy Graeme Elliot
Back row: Stephen Gaston, Andrew Goligher, Craig Bellingham, Thomas Mcveigh, Marshall Berry, James Mann // Middle: Peter Keen, George Taggart, Graeme Elliott, Daryll, Nevin Gaston, Ann Taylor, Barry Hanson // Front: Melanie Brown, Louise Donaghy, Jacqueline Purdy, Stephanie, Tracy Kane, Donna Howard, Debbie Kane, ?

Craig B: “I think I was on that trip to Holland, just seen me self in a leaving photo! Unreal memories. Hope everyone’s well.”
Graeme Elliott: “Yes indeed, you were on Holland trip – with your arm in plaster if I remember rightly. Trying to row a boat at Duinrell with one arm!”

“Parents, teachers and volunteers were critical to so many areas of school life. All P6 and all P7 pupils had an Environmental Studies residential week in Derganagh, Ballycastle. During that week the pupils worked closely with the National Trust. In the early years we had the assistance of Mr. Hill Dick who taught the pupils about Conservation. It was great to have an Educational trip where all pupils in a class attended, and an additional Educational trip was offered each year to senior classes. Places visited included Belgium, Holland, Paris, Barcelona and London – few other primary schools offered such exotic trips.

Graeme Elliot: “I can see my dad in the photo! I think he has that photo, with David Millar is in it too. P7 leavers photo, 1988”

“We also had a number of trips to the Bobby Charlton Soccer School. A highlight of that trip was a tour of Old Trafford, watch United play and lunch in the Red Cafe, Old Trafford. Teachers and classroom staff and parent volunteers helped on these trips – without volunteer helpers these trips would not have been possible.”

Jenny Price: “I started Carnalridge in P5, in 1989, Mr Millar there as Principal. I had Miss Rennie for P5 and P6, and then Mr Millar for P7.
This P7 leavers photo is June 1991.” (Photo courtesy Jenny Price)

Carnalridge, trips: Educational trip to London, above, and below older group to Belgium

Laurie Y: “Oh my gosh, yes I’m in the pic of the London trip… I think that was 95/96 year, I was in P7. It was amazing, I remember is so vividly! Mrs Rennie was the best and we all loved Mr Millar,so many great memories. Derganagh house was the best craic!”

Garry McI: “David Millar… I modelled 24 years of affordable  school trips to Ballycastle on the awesome example set by David Millar when he included our small group of P7s in his school’s plans. Totally unselfish with his time, energy and commitment to his youngsters’ needs.”

Left: my dad, Sgt. Martin, with road safety prizes, early 1980s Right, Commemorstion of VE Day parade, 17 May 1995

Sheila K, down at Portrush PS: “Oh David, thank you for this write-up! Lovely tales and pictures … it’s like a whole other world to me! 😊We worked closely with St. Patrick’s round the corner, but sorry to say, we didn’t know Carnalridge so much at all. I know David Millar was a very popular principal and did a lot for the school to raise its profile and by all accounts was an excellent leader and lovely to work for / with. Otherwise, all in your blog was new to me … a little bit more local history! 😊

Miss Rennie returement, 1999. Ian McIlgorm wrote of his years, “”Other teachers at that time were P3/Mrs Hamilton and of course P4/Miss Rennie. Who didn’t love Miss Rennie? What a great teacher she was, even now gives me a warm glow to think of that P4 classroom.”

The four heads of Carnalridge, Messrs. Bankhead, McIlgorm, Murdock (does anyone have a photo of him?) and Millar. About Miss Rennie, someone says, “I smiled when I read about Miss Rennie. She was there for decades!” – her 38-year Carnalridge career spanned ll four Principals. And Trish says, “I was really fortunate to meet Miss Rennie a few years ago. It was so lovely. Given the number of children that went through her care, she was still able to point me out in the 1963 photo!

Patricia M: “As a teacher currently working in Carnalridge it is lovely hearing/reading about years gone by, the staff and pupils of yesteryear are always so well remembered. My fiancé’s mum and her siblings also went to CPS so I loved hearing about their memories too. Generations of families have attended CPS, it’s great to keep the memories alive.”

P7 leavers, 1998 photo

My nephew, Andrew Martin, was at Carnalridge in those Millar years. He had written about often coming out of school, with my mum and dad waiting for him, for a drive around the town, then to the house for snack and do homework. He writes, “I attended Carnalridge Primary School from 1998 until 2005, and was one of the last classes to go through all years in the old school. It was overflowing, with P3 to P5 classes exiled from the main school building to surrounding mobile classrooms. I remember the black stone hallway that ran from Mrs Harten’s Reception / P1 classroom all the way down to Mrs McCloskey’s P7 classroom. The P7 classroom lay opposite Mr Millar’s office. This meant that in P7, if any of our class misbehaved and were sent to the Principal’s office, we could listen and hear exactly what happened on the other side of the hallway – which always kept us in line. I became aware in later years that this was similar to a technique used in interrogation situations, though I never found out whether the CIA adopted this from Mr Millar, or the other way around. 

Celebrating 150 years, in year 2000

“The uniform at the time was the light blue t-shirt under a dark navy jumper with the huge Carnalridge crest on the front – there was never any doubt which school you went to when you wore that uniform! 

“From my time in Carnalridge I remember every Christmas walking up the hill through the back gate to Ballywillan Presbyterian Church to rehearse and give our Christmas Concert. I remember break and lunchtimes playing football in the school yard and Sports Days in the field next to the school building (where the new school would eventually be built). I remember our P5 teacher Miss Waide’s  famous phrase, when we “‘forgot our homework’ that we had not ‘forgotten’ but  had ‘chosen not to remember’”.  I remember the school trips that went to London, Paris and Amsterdam on a three yearly cycle – I got to go to London, a highlight being that I fell asleep during the Lion King performance in the West End!”

“Also, just for your information, the Old School was knocked down just after my time. I am led to believe that Mr Millar who was the principal during my time got some government approval for the new school building during a school trip to London (probably 2003/4).”

“The school grew from a small school in the old building to the point where, eventually, it was agreed to provide a new school building. It was sort of sad to see the old building being demolished but it had served us well. I found the original foundation stones underneath the plaster and had it and the old clock mounted on the corridor wall of the new school, to preserve them.

Graeme McDowell: Carnalridge pupil until 1990; opening the new school; me seeing G-Mac on the 1st tee at The Open at Portrush, 2019

“The new school was opened on 4th February 2009 by Graeme McDowell, a former pupil. Graeme was amazing and spent so much time with pupils, staff and parents. One amusing incident: I took Graeme round all classes to meet the pupils. Graeme chatted to the pupils, telling them about life as a professional golfer. In Year One he asked, Any questions? One pupil piped up and asked him if he was any good at golf? Graeme replied, “Sometimes I am, and sometimes I’m not!“

Shaun Connor: “I grew up in Islandmore in the 40s/50s, and locals had a choice of three primary schools, equidistant from my home – Ballyhome, Blagh or Carnalridge. For my sins, I attended Blagh!
The first two are long gone but it’s nice to see that Carnalridge is still thriving.”

“Mr. McIlgorm, a previous Head, had advised me to think carefully about ever moving from Carnalridge. I took his advice and never considered moving to a bigger school. I stayed at Carnalridge for thirty years. There was very much a family atmosphere in the school, and pupils, staff and parents were so supportive. I loved it and counted it an honour to be there.

Christmas card, 2000, painting by Garth Giffin (source: Kellie Mairs) ; Cutting the first sod for the new building, with the whole school, January 24th, 2007; new school, opened in 2009

“My thirty years passed so quickly. I have so many excellent memories. I’m a bit biased but can honestly say they were amazing, enjoyable years. The pupils, parents and staff that I met or worked with could not have been better anywhere. Would I do it again? Three big YESses!!! It is lovely to still keep in touch with ex-staff, parents and pupils, and I love to hear of their success. I keep in touch on social media with former pupils throughout the world. One former pupil even invited me to their wedding in Spain – it was such an honour.”

The roll is now 140 pupils, over four classrooms, and David Millar continues, “Carnalridge is a unique school. I keep in touch since leaving and continue to follow its progress. Long may the school continue to grow and prosper.”

And as a final comment on the school and to close off this Carnalridge blog series, Andrew writes, “Most of all I remember the kindness of many of the staff members in Carnalridge, from Ernie McCauley the school caretaker who was always so helpful, Carol who seemed to be an almost omnipresent classroom assistant in the school, to the teachers who always went above and beyond to help us. The kindness I was shown in Carnalridge certainly shaped my young life and left its mark on me as I went on to secondary school and beyond.” 

Coleraine Times newspaper feature, Carnalridge, 1984 (newspaper cuttings from Kellie Mairs)

======================
This Carnalridge series, thanks especially to Trish Gray who wrote up her story and started the trend, and Reba Jackson and Ian McIlgorm, and David Millar for this episode, and Andrew Martin all the contributors throughout whose Facebook comments I have ‘stolen’ and included.
Photographs from many sources, thank you so much – Trish, Helen, Jenny, Reba, Claire, Graeme, Ian & Valerie, Julia, & a number of others too!
Elaine Moore at the school.
Newspaper cuttings especially from David Millar and Kellie Mairs
Online archive: https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/

RELATED BLOGS –
The Carnalridge sagas:
Carnalridge Primary School (I) the Bankhead years
– based on TrihGray stories, 1960s
Carnalridge Primary School (II) Bankhead, Revisited
– based on Reba Jackson stories, 1950s, and earlier
Carnalridge Primary School (III) the McIlgorm years – based on Ian McIlgorm stories
Carnalridge Primary School (IV) the Millar Years
School days
I.   Portrush schools – growing pains – the development of schools in Portrush
II.  Portrush Primary School – Infants, downstairs
III. Portrush Primary School – Seniors, upstairs
IV. Portrush Primary School and the West Germany football team
V.  Portrush Primary School – P7 and the School Trip

Sunday School Excursion to Portrush – coming to Portrush, excursion in 1950s

On the bus to Dunluce School – school days, teachers, activities, badminton successes, sports, ….
Dunluce School plays Billy Liar, 1980 – hilarious stories from Sheila K in Sixth Form !

Primary school · School days · The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Carnalridge Primary School (III) the McIlgorm years

My teenage years playing badminton at the Kelly Hally, Ian McIlgorm was in one of the other teams around the area and we met up occasionally at matches and tournaments, and I think we met at youth club events at Ballywillan church or at the Manse there. Now on the topic of Carnalridge school, I ask Ian if he went there and he replies……

Ian McIlgorm: “My father Donald McIlgorm was headteacher from September 1966, taking over from Mr Bankhead, until 1975/76 when he went to Killowen Primary. During those years we lived in the school residence, the house two up from Ballywillan church drive on the main road. It has since been extended but I think still has the ancient glasshouse in the back garden. It probably now has some sort of central heating, which certainly didn’t exist in the late 70s. Whistling draughts and coal fires are my abiding memories of that house. That, and knocking golf balls from the garden out into the fields by Ballywillan, a great lesson in watching carefully to be able to find them amongst the tufts and cowpats.

The previous blogs on the school –
Carnalridge Primary School (I) the Bankhead years
Carnalridge Primary School (II) Bankhead, Revisited

“Don had been head of a small primary in Castlederg before coming to Portrush, where he took over from James Bankhead. My older siblings Valerie and Alistair started in Carnalridge in late 1966, and I started in 1967. Not to date people unnecessarily but Willie Gregg was a pupil at that time (as he reminds me on my pilgrimages to the harbour).

Ian: “School photo, 1967 I reckon. I remember this being taken in the school hall as I was not yet at school. Valerie would have been P7, Alistair P5 and I was pre-school. I remember Mrs Freeman and maybe Miss Rennie watching this pic being taken and making me smile!
On the right, me , 1970 – I look about P4 age (roughly).” Photos: courtesy McIlgorm family

“The school building itself had the hall at the end of the main corridor. The kitchen had a serving hatch. I can see in my mind’s eye the cooks, lovely ladies, but I can’t pull a name from memory.”

Emma D: “Dinner ladies had Mrs Longman in charge and my mum Linda Sutcliffe was there too. I can picture the others but I can’t remember their names.” And Jackie M: “My mum Mary Millen was also a dinner lady.”

Later, 1980s – Mrs Longman’s retirement, and photo includes “Mrs Greer, caretaker, the Rev J Fraser and a very young David Millar!!”

“P1/P2 were in the classroom with windows onto the field and Ballywillan. My teacher was Frida Davidson, who was married to Reggie, from Portstewart. Reggie and my Dad played golf together, before the Davison’s moved to Cookstown. Frida contacted me a few years ago, completely out of the blue, a lovely surprise.

Valerie McIntyre/McIlgorm: “Staff, 1966 /7. “A very young Frida Davidson is centre back – the other two may have been student teachers for a term? Front, Miss Rennie, Mr McIlgorm and Mrs Moore. “Mrs ‘Biddy’ Moore took P4 in the Church Hall, awaiting a new classroom – she taught us P6 & P7 girls how to knit mitts and scarves.

“Other teachers at that time were P1, Mrs Freeman, P3 was Mrs Hamilton (I want to say Yvonne?) and of course P4 was Miss Rennie. Who didn’t love Miss Rennie? What a great teacher she was, even now gives me a warm glow to think of that P4 classroom.

Bobby Ann: “A wonderful school. Both my children went there, the 1970s, and great teachers. Both my children loved Mrs Baker Mrs Patton & Miss Rennie, Mr McIlgorm was there for 3 years of my daughters time & one year of my sons time. Both had Mr Murdock & son had Mr Millar.”

“My Dad taught in the classroom in the old part of the building closest to the front door. P5/6/7 were all in together. There was a storeroom at the far end – I can still smell the stationary/pens/paints which were kept in there.

Headmasters at school are a bit scary: for me, Mr Logan at Portrush PS certainly was! Ian writes, “Opposite that classroom was the Staff room, not somewhere you wanted to be summoned to! Suffice to say I was disciplined like any other pupil and felt the cane a few times. Sometimes I even deserved it. Maybe. Others were regular visitors. It wouldn’t happen today and that is a very good thing.”

And Adrian H writes: “My sisters had left Carnalridge a few years before, and I was now moving up into the combined P5/6/7 class of Mr McIlgorm. I was a bit wary of him and so not looking forward to that September day.
We always had meals cooked at school, and when the Headmaster asked for a show of hands for lunch, up popped my hand. Then he said “And how many for school dinners?”. An instant dilemma! Fearing I would miss out on being fed, up popped my hand again. Short gap…then he says “Did anyone put their hand up twice?” I admitted my error and when asked why, explained. Thankfully no punishment ensued, but it was a scary start to term.

Someone’s memory is, “How a child is treated by a teacher /teachers really makes an impact.. My son is in his 2nd year of teacher training and I always tell him, Please please always look out for poor little children.”

Ian continues, “One year was the experiment with the clocks not changing. We were issued with reflective armbands as Daylight Saving (or not) meant it was still dark when walking to school. Always, lots of children walked to school, from every direction.”

About that Daylight Saving trial, RosPA, the prevention of accidents people tells us that clocks moved forward in March 1968 and for three years there was permanent British Summer Time (BST). Road casualty figures were collected during the morning (7-10am) and in the afternoon (4-7pm) for the two winters before and then during the trial. The data showed 2,500 fewer people were killed or seriously injured during those first two years of the trials – an 11.7% reduction. But the tragedy of a lad killed during the trial got such media attention that the potential for lives saved were over-ruled. The trial was dropped, and we reverted to turning the clocks back to GMT in October 1971..
David Martin: “Yup I remember that!! ..wearing elasicated armbands, bright orange with a grey reflective stripe.”

“Trying to be unbiased but my father was a great teacher, funny, unpredictable in a good way, a teaser who tried to bring out the best in his pupils, especially those who he felt were borderline candidates in the 11-plus. We were coached (clandestinely). I am sure contemporaries would remember the Brown and Spotty books of non-verbal reasoning tests which we were to hide if anyone unknown came in to school.

“He was particularly fond of geography, which I am sure instilled a curiosity and wanderlust in more than just me. We listened to a weekly radio education broadcast, details escape me, but certainly music was partly from that big wooden box with the circular grill in the middle.

Ian continues, “Break time (10.50 – 11am) was milk time. Those little 1/3 pint glass bottles were great. They must have stopped when “Thatcher, milk-snatcher” became Education Sec in 1971, stopping free milk for over 7s. I remember taking the crates to P1/P2.

Trish Gray: “Every morning a couple of P6/7 children would go outside to bring the milk crates in, and deliver them to the classrooms. The attached photo reminded me of what they used to look like in the winter – frozen solid! And in the summer, very tepid.”

Jackie M’: “Loved reading this. Definitely my era. I remember being in the same classroom as Ian as a P7.
I think the music programme on radio was “Sing together” with accompanying pamphlets to sing from.”

Sharon C: “My whole family went to Carnalridge, from 1963 to early 1970s…. Miss Rennie, Mrs Patton, Mrs Baker – three wonderful women…..and Mr McIlgorm, Mrs Freeman, and I can remember a Miss /Mrs Boyd…. Many happy memories. …Unfortunately I have no photos but will find out from other family members…Mr McIlgorm was a nice man, strict enough but fair..Miss Rennie was my Absolute Favourite. Mrs Patton was lovely as was Mrs Baker..”

“Great days were the ones where the bell did not go after lunch and we played in the field. There was a version of Cowboys and Indians, re-imagined as Town v Country. Those who lived inside the 30mph sign were pitched against those of us from Islandflacky, Islandmore, Craigahulliar and all town lands in between.

“Football too, was a favourite, but more so if Mr McIlgorm came out to referee. There was no team as such, just ad hoc chaos. I remember a tree in the corner of the field, an evergreen which we played around.”

Staff, about 1973. Back row, flowery blouse is Mrs Patton, blue jumper is Mrs J Baker, orange jumper is Yvonne Hamilton.
Front, Miss Rennie, Mr Don McIlgorm, Mrs Madge Smith

Nicola T: “I was taught by Mrs Patton, Miss Rennie and Mrs Baker.”
Stanley Elder: “Love it – that’s just how I remember Mary Rennie 👍
Carolyn M: “I have very fond memories of Carnalridge from the Mr Bankhead and Mr McIlgorm years – but sadly no photos. I loved the photos shared recently.”
Deborah S: “Miss Rennie, Mrs Baker and Mrs Patton three fantastic teachers. They made such a difference to my childhood memories of school.”
Alisha B: “I loved Mrs Smyth, she was my favourite.. She used to always give me sweets from her tin when everyone else wasn’t looking lol 💜

The newspaper above, March 1972, announces Mr. McIlgorm’s appointment as VP of the teachers’ union, then to be President in April 1973. Ian writes, “Don’s work with the UTU stuff was voluntary, after work. He made regular trips to Belfast including meetings of the ‘Executive’ maybe once a month. He would leave before the end of school, about 2pm, often setting the class art work to be getting on with.

“I think, looking back from 50 years later, I was aware that travelling to Belfast in 1973 and ’74 was not risk-free. My 10 year-old self accepted that as “normal” but not much was normal in those years – there were power strikes and demonstrations and roadblocks. He enjoyed though the characters involved in the Union business, and Don and Ruby – my mother, herself a teacher in Dundooan at the time – would go to the UTU conference every Easter in the Slieve Donard Hotel in Newcastle. More nerve-wracking, as President he was invited to address the NUT conference in Scarborough in 1973.

Back to the school, “As someone else has mentioned, the toilet block was outside – freezing in winter. Shiny loo paper too!! Awful. It did form a natural split in the playground so older children would tend to play in the part closest to the road. Chain tag games would involve the whole school, or at least those who had got to school early.

“I don’t remember if we queued to come in but I do remember the little sinks and metal coat pegs (yellow?) which were opposite Miss Rennie’s classroom.”

Thank you so much, Julie Shortt for this, the One and Only photograph from a pupil over the years 1966 to 1980, the McIlgorm And Murdock years. Julie writes, “Hi David, I was a pupil at Carnalridge PS when Mr McIlgorm and then Mr Murdock were the heads. I attach a photo of our school trip (P6 and 7) in 1978 to The Ulster American Folk park. I think the teacher is Mrs Murdock, wife of the Head.
“Names include, back row Emma S, Jonathan M and Gillian C. Front row includes John S, me (Julie Palmer), Gillian McM, Alan W, Deborah D and David B. That’s not everyone as I can’t make out all the faces!”

Jennifer Baxter: “I went to Carnalridge from 1972-78. I absolutely loved it and have very fond memories. I also have a photo (somewhere) of my class holding up our cycling proficiency certificates! Mr McIlgorm was the headmaster until Mr Murdock took over when I was in P6/7. I’d moved to Portstewart by then and he used to drive me in each day along with his own children. I have plenty more memories of the school that I could share!
After Mr McIlgorm, Mr Murdock, taught me for 2 years in P6 & 7. I smiled when I read about Miss Rennie. She was there for decades! She taught me in P5 and was really lovely. She also had an impressive knack of standing in front of you and reading your book upside down without any hesitation. I remember being very impressed by that 😂

“A very strong memory was an outing to The Giant’s Causeway. I think my dad was appalled at how many children had never been and organised a coach. We had lots of lessons around that outing, including a maths lesson on how to measure the cliff height by recording the angle of view from two positions. Isn’t it strange what detail the brain retains!?”

To close off the McIlgorm years episode, Ian writes, “After the highlights of being President of the UTU, my Dad felt the need of a career progression to move to a bigger school, and he moved over to Killowen in Coleraine – the photograph is of him there, in 1978. In all honesty the change to being a non-teaching Head was not straightforward and I think he really missed the level of contact of a classroom teacher.”

Debbie D: “I remember him as principal of Killowen primary school in the late 70’s early 80’s – always liked him…”

During his time there at Killown, there was a young up – and – coming teacher, a former pupil at Carnalridge, named David Millar. Don was very supportive, a great mentor, and said how much he enjoyed being there, and encouraged David to apply for Principal at Carnalridge…

======================
Photographs courtesy McIlgorm family, Julia Shortt, Trish Gray, newspaper cuttings from David Millar scrapbook & https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/

RELATED BLOGS –

School days
The previous blogs on the school –
Carnalridge Primary School (I) the Bankhead years
Carnalridge Primary School (II) Bankhead, Revisited


I.   Portrush schools – growing pains – the development of schools in Portrush
II.  Portrush Primary School – Infants, downstairs
III. Portrush Primary School – Seniors, upstairs
IV. Portrush Primary School and the West Germany football team
V.  Portrush Primary School – P7 and the School Trip

Sunday School Excursion to Portrush – coming to Portrush, excursion in 1950s

On the bus to Dunluce School – school days, teachers, activities, badminton successes, sports, ….
Dunluce School plays Billy Liar, 1980 – hilarious stories from Sheila K in Sixth Form !

School days · The development of Portrush · The story of Portrush

Carnalridge Primary School (II) Bankhead – the Early Years

“Well David I have very happy memories of Carnalridge. I was there from 1947 to 1953. It was a two-teacher school then, two wonderful teachers, Miss McCartney and Mr Bankhead.”

(Photos courtesy & copyright Reba Jackson) Pre-school, at their Corrstown house, with cousin and brother and pets! / Centre, aged 7, learning to ride my bike / Right, aged 21, at Butlins Mosney camp 1963

This is 2nd part of series on Carnalridge – first part is, Carnalridge Primary School: Bankhead.

And Reba Jackson continues, “Miss Mc Cartney taught the younger children. She had us in a band playing the triangle, harmonica and drums! She also had us acting nursery rhymes to music. She also sent a few of us outside to look at Carnalridge sign and learn how to spell it!

“I remember when Prince Charles was born we had to write a composition welcoming the baby prince to our green and pleasant land. And I remember the first day school dinners were introduced – Miss Harbinson and Miss Smith were the cooks.”

“Mr Bankhead taught the older children. In the days before piped water, the older boys had to go to the well down the road to fetch a pail of water back for the sink!! And in Mr Bankhead’s rooom we got to listen to radio programmes like about the Ice Age etc, and Musical programs to sing along with them. We also had silent reading once a week in the afternoon and this instilled in me a love of reading.”

“And Mr Bankhead was a great gardener. He used to win prizes for his daffodils at Coleraine Show. I remember the older boys worked on a piece of adjoining land and made it into a garden.”

School photograph courtesy Helen Doey, who writes: “I went to Carnalridge 1951 to 1957. Great wee school. This school photo taken circa 1956/57. There are some names written on the back (not very clear) but some might recognise themselves. I am second row from back 8th from left. Teachers were Miss McCartney and Miss Moore, Mr Bankhead was headmaster. Cooks were Ms Smyth and Ms Harbison (I think) both beside Mr Bankhead. Can’t remember the name of the lady far left.”

Sylvia Van Elst (Sylvia Young); “Oh my goodness!!! I am in this photo and so is my younger sister Maureen … our names are in that list too, Sylvia and Maureen Young!! The photo taken in in 1956/57 before my family emigrated to Australia in March 1958!! I remember both teachers so well. Mr Bankhead was my teacher in grade 6 before I attended Coleraine Intermediate School in September 1957. Such memories! I wish I knew if any of the students in the list / photo are still around. I have my original photo!
Are any of these girls /women able to be contacted? Rosemary Dunlop, Iris Taggart, Helen Wylie, Marlene McMath – of course these are their maiden names!”

“Miss Mc Cartneys teaching colleague taught at Irish Society school in Coleraine, and if their holidays were different she was free to come to see us in Carnalridge. She always brought us a bag of sweets to share with us – this was a real treat as sweets were still rationed until the early 1950s.”

We know Carnalridge as being a primary school, but when Reba was first there, there were older children too. She says, “I did the qualifying exam at aged 11 and went to Coleraine High School. As far as I can remember when I was there at first the children stayed on to ages 15 or 16. My brother was three years older than me and he went to Coleraine Intermediate school.” I see news that Carnalridge changed to being only a primary school in 1950.

“I was still at Carnalridge when it was the Queen Elizabeth’s Coronation, and we were given tickets by Portrush Council to have free rides on Barry’s amusements. Several pupils took part in the Carnival of Floats around the town. We also got a Coronation mug and a beaker and a shilling, all of which I still have.”

Left, Mr. Bankhead having assembled and watching a television set, in February 1952. ‘The Crown’ series tells me that the big growth of TV was for the Coronation in 1953 – presumably Mr Bankhead was away ahead of the time, making newspaper news!

Trish had said, “The original school was two classes. A third class was built in the 1950’s I think.” Well done Trish, that sounds like the extension work mentioned in the 1954 newspaper article on the right. (I think the Co. Derry Education Committee were a bit miffed to be spending on Carnalridge (in Co. Derry) when a portion of the pupils came from Portrush (Co. Antrim).) Advert for new teacher in 1955 says the roll as 89 – and three teachers, with backdrop of the assembly hall, are shown in the 1957 photograph.

Going back a bit earlier now, I find this photograph below, but my apologies as I have forgotten where it come from, whose photo it is – sorry! Does Reba recognise the photo, is she in it? “Well, I only recognise Mr Bankhead in the photo but a few of the faces look familiar. I am not in it myself, before my time I think.” And Gwen McK adds, “I believe this photograph is of pupils from Carnalridge school as my mother and her sister are in it,. Early 1940s we think, but I don’t know where the photo was taken.”

That stonework on the wall: did the school go up to Ballywillan Presbyterian Church for services? Reba says, “I have no memory of going up to the church except that we were encouraged to go outside and look at the new steeples that were applied to the spire! I also remember the new chemical toilet block being built. Sorry David I have rambled on a bit. Incidentally I would love if someone had a school photo during those years at school as I don’t have any!”

I count about 35 pupils in the photo, if that was the school roll call in WWII years.

Looking back, Carnalridge school is one of the oldest schools in Portrush to be still on the same site. During the new school building work, in 2000s, the foundation stone, 1850, was found, and I see the job advert in 1851 for School-master and mistress.

I imagine the school building then being low-key, spartan. I see a nice bequest though in 1892, and I guess building works being a upgrade,proudly leading to a re-opening in 1894, announced on the front page of the Chronicle in 1894. A prompt and punctual attendance is earnestly requested.

And well done to the Huey family, in Ballywillan: the Rev. James Huey working to set up the education – badly needed, judging by the carving of SCHOOE – and a John Huey administering the 1892 bequest.
Amazing, 170 years later, we look back and remember and are thankful for your great service. A great legacy, I reckon.

Elaine Moore at the school finds the register for 1903, perhaps the oldest extant at Carnalridge (National School); another example, Roll of Standard, as Public Elementary School, in 1944
There are many of the old school books – registers, roll calls, …. – are stored at Carnalridge school, should anyone wish to follow up on the school history, or search for their family’s attendance at the school. And Carolyne L writes: “I am tracing my family tree. My grandfather Daniel Henry attended the school from 1893 along with his siblings James, Joseph, Andrew and Edward. My father Hugh Wilson Henry was at Carnalridge from 1915 as well as his brothers Daniel Charles Henry and Robert Greer Henry. The family lived at Magherabuoy, Maddybenny and Macilvennon. These earlier school records are held at Proni from around 1890’s to 1930’s and the reference number is SCH 182/1/1.”

There was another round of building in 1910, the school with a roll call of 100. Pretty interesting in newspaper of that time, there is a little write-up of history of education at Ballywillan. I had thought that educaton in Portrush started with the church or school buildings, in 1840s or so – but this article talks of itinerant teachers maybe a hundred years earlier, in the 1700s, traveling from place to place; then with a school-work at Burnside, at Dunlop’s carpenters’ shop, in the later 1700s. That is a new understanding of the origins of education in Portrush.

​Fiona L: “My grandmother taught in Carnalridge  (about 1912 ish!) She was Miss Killen and became Mrs Hamill and then, of course, had to give up teaching.”

I presume WWI, loss of men, and in 1920s the roll call was down to 53. Mr. Bankhead sees the job advert of November 1931 and starts at the school, ushering in a new era, with pupils numbers up to 70 pupils in 1932, but with over-crowding – the class in the ‘small room’ has ten kids more than capacity, and the school is ‘badly lit, and unstable in many ways.’

Photos courtesy Elaine Moore at the school.
Robin Williams, in film ‘Dead Poets Society,’ brings his class out to the lobby at his school, gets them to press their faces up close to the glass to hear what the children in the photo are saying… They listen, and hear, “Culpa diem….. culpa diem.” Seize the day. Make the most of the opportunities given to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vi0Lbjs5ECI

Claire Armstrong: “David I have been following your recent posts on Carnalridge PS. My late dad and his twelve siblings all attended the school – he was the youngest and would have started late 1940s and I’m guessing the older ones were there around 1930s – the photo below, about 1934, came from his oldest sister’s family after she passed away a few years ago, aged 95. There are four of the Kane siblings marked in the photo. They lived in a cottage at Roselick, which is still there. And Miss Rennie is a cousin of my late mum, so it was nice to read the story…. Many thanks Claire”

Shirley Vance (McIntyre): “I have very happy memories of my time at Carnalridge school in 1950 when I started my education. Miss McCartney was my teacher and was a lovely person. When I was ill she actually came to see me at home with a gift of oranges. She taught everything in her class besides the 3R’s. I learned to knit and sew. We played in our small playground games like pass the ball, beanbags and skipping with ropes. Great times. Not forgetting our school dinners which were great and our small bottles of milk and also orange juice.
“I visited the new building just a few years past and was welcomed by the staff and given a tour to see the changes. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw the original school clock hanging above the door and also got to see the school register from way back when I was a pupil. A FANTASTIC School!”

The Kane children were at Carnalridge under Mr.Bankhead from his start in 1932 through the 1930s and 1940s. Reba was there from 1947 to 1953, and Trish was there, from September 1960 to June 1966. Trish’s last day at Carnalridge was also Mr Bankhead’s last day, him being given a cuckoo clock and retiring.

John M: “Mr. Bankhead filled in at the Irish Society school and taught me there for a year after he retired. Great teacher.”

Ian McIlgorm follows up: “My father Donald McIlgorm took over from Mr Bankhead as headteacher in September 1966, and was there until 1975/76 when he went to Killowen Primary. During those years we lived in the school residence, the house two up from Ballywillan church drive on the main road. It has since been extended but I think still has the ancient glasshouse in the back garden. It probably now has some sort of central heating, which certainly didn’t exist in the late 70s. Whistling draughts and coal fires are my abiding memories of that house. That, and knocking golf balls from the garden out into the fields by Ballywillan, a great lesson in watching carefully to be able to find them amongst the tufts and cowpats…….”

And that is the story for the next blog.

======================
RELATED BLOGS –

School days
This is 2nd part of series on Carnalridge – first part is, Carnalridge Primary School: Bankhead.

I.   Portrush schools – growing pains – the development of schools in Portrush
II.  Portrush Primary School – Infants, downstairs
III. Portrush Primary School – Seniors, upstairs
IV. Portrush Primary School and the West Germany football team
V.  Portrush Primary School – P7 and the School Trip

Sunday School Excursion to Portrush – coming to Portrush, excursion in 1950s

On the bus to Dunluce School – school days, teachers, activities, badminton successes, sports, ….
Dunluce School plays Billy Liar, 1980 – hilarious stories from Sheila K in Sixth Form !

With thanks to contributors – Trish Gray, Reba Jackson, Andrew Martin, Ian McIlgorm, David Millar, Elaine Moore, Claire Armstrong, Shirley Vance, Gwen McK, Helen Doey, and others!
Photographs are courtesy the contributor
Newspaper clippings from https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/

Portrush - Great Institutions · Shows · The story of Portrush

The White House (III) Styling, by Gerald

Gerlad McQuilken: “As I settled in to the China Department for the next 3 years, I was to see many changes happen to this wonderful building. Some good and some not so good!! The most outstanding feature of The White House was, in my opinion, the Arcade and its many windows. These windows were to be featured in how I put in the long winter months at this establishment..

“In Summer we were extremely busy. Long hours and lots of customers. Many coming into the store at 9.55pm as we were trying to close. As Audrey my colleague used to say, ‘Have ye no homes to go to?’

“Summers were crazy. But in winter the front doors were usually only opened by the wind leading us to believe a customer may have been coming in. They were very few in these winter months, only getting busy again at Easter Weekend. This is where the Arcade came to be our past-time. Rather than twiddle our thumbs or dust the oak cabinets one more time, we (Margaret Hamill and I) would dress the windows.

“Monday would be Ladies, which usually got one of the main front windows, and Furniture in the other, usually dressed out in fine dining tables with Miss White’s finest dinner services and cutlery. The interior windows in the Arcade would have one allocated to Toys, one for Shoes, one for Menswear and the smaller ones for Tights and Bags. This would pass many a day, and in between a bit of fun when the boss was in the office or on a day off, and this gave me my passion for window dressing. (Years later I would go to Dublin to train in window dressing.)

Allison C: “Great read. I loved walking into the arcade on the way home from school to get out of the rain for a few minutes. I had forgotten about the toy window until I read this. As a child I collected corgi cars and used to go into the white house to spin the display round to look at all the detail on the little cars.”

Years later, Gerald applying his window-dressing and shop display skills, managing the Red Cross shop in Railway Rd. in Coleraine….

“Thursday was always letter writing day, letters to my friends at Uni, and fitting in reading the Chronicle… Saturday morning was always the day to polish the brasses and to mop the beautifully decorated tiled floor of the Arcade. There was always time for mischief though, and exploring the dozens of store rooms outside and inside the shop – this was a regular past-time. One such room was a little room at the top of the building, on the left side as you look from across the road. The tiny room in question was a store room where all the stationery was stored. But years before, in the 1940s and 1950s this room was known as Jonny’s room. Jonny was the in-store tailor who lived in the room and was no doubt kept busy tailoring customers’ purchases. The bed and bedclothes remained the same though, making it rather spooky. I was never keen on going there for stationery. Some say that Jonny haunted the building after he passed – I never loitered long enough to find out..

……..and in volunteering at New Beginnings in Main St. in Porrush.

“Maybe through boredom, I started organising events for the staff at The White House – Dinner dances, daytrips and the Annual BBQ. And next time I will indulge you with some fabulous memories of our days and nights out….”

Allison C: “I remember the Tea shop – to call it a cafe is an insult. Table cloths, cake stands with pastry to chose from and you paid for what you had. Mum used to take us for a treat. That was long before the coffee shop growth in town so was a real experience I’ll never forget.”

White House outing to Glenveagh Castle; and at the Causeway, about 1985